I made a few changes to the muslin and it’s looking and feeling better in general, less snug. Not completely there yet, though I think I’m close.
The front: I took out the diagonal seam at bust height, but a bit too much above the bust. At the right side I’ve made a slit and added some fabric. That is no improvement.
I’ve indicated the welt pockets with strips of fabric, higher than I planned them earlier. With a marker I’ve indicated a little change in the diagonal seam, both at the bottom and at the top. How difficult to mark the garment when looking in a mirror!
Front of the sleeves is OK. I’ve put in the thin shoulder pads I intend to use.
The back: On the right side I’ve sewn the sleeve at the seamline of the pattern. On the left side I’ve changed the armscye and took out some space, more at the bottom of it, tapering to nothing to the shoulder point. Should I take out more or should I keep the extra ease for moving? Do you agree that the left side is better than the right?
The extra space added to the right, not improving.
This side looks better. Should I add more space at bust level?
I’ve added an extra centimeter to the sleeve length just to be sure, 2.5 cm instead of my normal 1.5 with Burda. The extra centimeter is too much.