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Jacket muslin no 3

Let’s just say I’m getting somewhere. Not perfect yet but better? To compare the photos of my first muslin (not completely fair comparison without sleeves) with the last one. Nancy was right in her comment that shoulderpads would help too, I couldn’t find any, they’re hiding and I will find them probably the moment I bought new ones. I’m sure I have them somewhere.
This last muslin is not the January Burda jacket but a pattern form the September 2004 issue. It has the same collar style as the KwikSew one. I did not cut it yet as I was hoping that this might end up in a wearable jacket and wanted to save the fabric.
I did the same as in the previous muslin: size 36 in the back, 42 in the front with an added fba. After trying it on with one sleeve attached I noticed the sleeve was too narrow to my liking and for the next one I gave some extra width. Felt much better. On the left sleeve I took an extra centimeter of the shoulder width, not very visible in the photo.
On the sides and back I let out the hems.
Should I:
  • do a bit more fitting in the waist? Not too much as that is not what the style needs? Now it still seems a bit too boxy for me, especially in the front
  • do a sway back adjustment?
  • a new one: a forward shoulder adjustment?
  • any other suggestions?


  1. If you look closer to the back, you'll see the back neck sits too low. Because of the big collar it sits not high but it can't be as low as I see it. From there all of your folds are originated in my opinion. The back length is not okay.
    You pattern is not balanced.


  2. It looks a smudge big in the front, maybe a 40 would be better??

    Otherwise I think it looks great.

  3. I think boxy is fine :-). That's the style and that's OK. But I agree with MrsSmith that perhaps the front is too large altogether. And the back isn't good unfortunately. It's not outright boxy, because of the seams there it looks like it should be more fitted. Instead it's floppy. So if I were you, I'd definitely take the back in a bit.
    I can't really see the forward shoulder adjustment though, especially as you seem to have fine straight shoulders to me :-).

  4. I remember that when you showed me your jacket pattern after KK had fit you, he changed the cb or the grainline in the back because your cb was not hanging straight. Well, I see that very clearly in this muslin. The cb seam is reading like a C. Why don't you take out the cb seam leaving a small sewn seam at the neck. Let it hang and see what happens.

  5. Have you applied the interfacing? I think that could smooth out most of the drag lines. I like the rest of the jacket. To me the neckline is a style/design option.

  6. I like the shoulder upper back - looks good. Maybe rather than a sway back, just let the high hip seam out a bit. But I agree with others that the front seems too big. Perhaps just take in the seams below the bust some more to define the waist and remove some excess fabric.

  7. I agree with Vicki. The area between the apex and the tummy seems a bit large and I think would benefit from some curving in. Love and admire your persistence.

  8. Overall, it looks good! I think it's a little big/boxy at the front (you have a shapley waist!). The back is a little big. But remember it's a jacket that you will wear with garments underneath. If you're not care full it may end up so small that you cannot wear it with anything else.!! The shoulders look fine :-)


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