Book review - Patternmaking for jacket and coat design

A few of you expressed an interest in a proper review for the book Patternmaking for jacket and coat design by Pamela Vanderlinde.

I found this book online when I was browsing through online bookstores looking for another book. As I’ve done quite a bit of pattern drafting in the past 2-3 years and have bought quite a few reference books on drafting as well, this caught my eye. Seeing some pages of it online I got really interested. It seemed to work from the same kind of block/sloper that I made for myself in Suzy Furrer’s Craftsy class so would help me get further from that starting point. I was not disappointed: it does work from a block or sloper, but the draft of a basic block or sloper is not included in the book. The author assumes you have a sloper to start with (explicitly mentioned in the book) and also assumes you know the basic terminology. I don’t have any problems understanding what is meant.

Drafts for 1 piece or 2 piece sleeves are included and drafted different from what I know from other systems. Something to try one day. (if you’re interested, I did a comparison of sleeve drafts in 2015 here and here)

From the sloper 3 different jacket/coat slopers are described: jacket, mannish and coat. I’ve never heard of the “mannish” variation and it’s not that much different from the jacket. The way to add the extra ease for a coat is a bit different from the way Suzy Furrer describes in her class (the sleeves class btw), having not tried any of those systems yet I can’t have a preference.

Then there are 7 chapters “devoted to  a historically significant design”. These are the blacer, tuxedo, mao jacket, motorcycle jacket, frock coat, military jacket and balmacaan coat. A great list with much diversity, though I do miss the trench coat.

Pamela Vanderlinde made the contents for each chapter the same: she describes a (very short) history of the style (2 pages), shows a few photos of that style in contemporary fashion (2 pages as well), then shows how to make the pattern, shows some toile/muslin photos, shows the final pattern pieces and a technical drawing and list of all pattern pieces you need, including lining. The parts of how to make the pattern, the final pattern pieces and technical drawing are very well done and to me the most interesting. The muslin pictures don’t add much. Some photos of well fitting muslins are shown on dressforms with the obligatory remark “Make any necessary fit corrections to pattern”. But nothing on how to do that or what problems you could specifically encounter with a certain style or certain area of the draft. It just doesn’t add much to it.

An example of the instructions, concise and to the point. I like this clear style very much:

Example of the drawing in the part where she shows how to draft the pattern:

And an example of technical drawing and list of pattern pieces:

For each chapter she states too which techniques you will learn.

The blazer

• mannish block
• 3-panel style-line
• semi-notched lapel
• 2-piece contour sleeve
• single welt pocket

Tuxedo

• shawl collar
• classic princess style-line
• 2-piece contour sleeve
• back vent
• welt pocket with flap

The military jacket

• cutaway style-line with faced hem
• armhole princess with front contour dart
• mandarin collar
• 1 piece sleeve with flared cuff

The motorcyle jacket

• asymmetrical exposed front zipper closure
• convertible collar
• armhole princess style
• welt pockets with exposed zippers
• exposed zipper sleeve vent with godet

The mao jacket

• tunic style jacket
• collar with stand
• breast and hip patch pocket with flaps

The balmacaan coat

• 2-piece raglan sleeve
• flared silhouette
• Prussian convertible collar
• hidden-button placket
• inseam pocket with welt
• sleeve tab

The frock coat

• peak lapel
• waistline seam
• flared sleeve
• flared skirt
• inverted back pleat

I’m happy to have found this book. The text is concise and to the point, the drawings are clear and easy to follow. I have browsed it with great interest and though I just started another coat (not drafted myself) I think I will use this in the future. A good addition to my sewing/drafting library.

New book

I pre-ordered this book a few weeks ago and when I came home tonight it was in the mailbox. I had been looking forward to it. There was no way to know whether it was what I was looking for. A few pages on Amazon looked ok so I just took my chances. After a quick look through it I think it's great as I was looking for the next step on drafting, especially coats and there is not much around on that subject. 

Would you like to know more? Then I'll do a proper review soon. 

A purple coat

This is the first coat I’ve sewn in years. I’ve been planning one for a number of years now, but it never happened. I hope to have photos of me wearing the coat later, but sometimes that just doesn’t happen either. I’ve worn it outside already and it’s nice and comfy. Great coat for a bicycle ride to run some errands and it’s a good car coat too.

The coat is not very heavily tailored. It has interlining of cotton for extra warmth as I showed in another post. Of course sleeveheads and shoulderpads but not completely fused with interfacing on the front, no shoulder stay for example. That’s for another time. I can see that would further improve it, but for now I’m really satisfied with the result. I would do a few things different next time (for example decide in an earlier stage to use interlining or not, the buttons could have been a bit larger), but we all have those thoughts just after we finish such a project, don’t we?
The pattern I started of with was from BurdaStyle magazine, september 2009.




Contrary to what the line drawing suggests, the collar is just a rectangle without any shaping. I lowered center front about an inch and shaped it to a curve, higher in the front than the back. I changed a few other details too, but the general idea is the same.
The lining is quite colourful, not exactly a style my friends expected from me when they saw it during our sewing weekend ;). As a lining it suits me very well.



The fabric itself is a lovely wool, given to me by my friend Viv, thanks again Viv! I brought her some lingerie fabrics. Coating fabric is hard for me to find, as is lingerie fabric for her, perfect swap.

Next time: my son’s shirt, finished in the meantime too.

Coat progress

How wonderful to have had those few days sewing together with friends. I’m back home now and it’s been great. We concluded that at home we all seldom have time to have so much dedicated sewing time in a few days (or even during one day). For me it was great to start on the coat and have it close to finishing. It still needs a couple of hours, but it would have taken me much longer otherwise.

Discussing design options, fitting, techniques is a great aspect of a get together with sewing friends. This collar and inset was something that was not in the original pattern but the result of discussing the muslin. I was not happy with the collar of the original (just a rectangle) and lowered it center front, gave it shape and added the trim. Initially the trim was a different fabric, but after two hours of work and not being able to attach it in a satisfactory way I was considering my options when Viv added another option to the mix and this is the result.

Added a pocket with zipper:

And because the fabric was thinner I added interlining as an afterthought. I used an extra layer of cotton fabric giving the coat more weight and an extra layer against the cold. As I did not initially plan for the interlining, I sewed it in to the seam allowanced instead of adding it to the pattern pieces in an earlier stage and  then use it as one layer of fabric. After the coat is finished you will not see this fabric any more. During these get togethers we always do an “ugly fabric swap” and this was what I ended up with(it’s always a hilarious hour when we swap, you don’t know what’s there and you don’t know what you’ll get till the very end because of the rules of the game). It was exactly enough for this and I was happy to use it as I had no fabric with me to use as interlining.

The pocket placement was marked on both sides using tailors’ chalk. I first marked one side with a thick line.

Then placed the other side of the coat over it, matching seams, hit it hard with my hand and the marking was on the other side as well.

As I said, there’s still a bit to be done but hope to finish it very soon.

Time flies

I had absolutely no idea it’s been almost two weeks already since my last post. In my mind it was only a week. My son’s shirt is a bit further as it was 12 days ago, but I took off the collar and stand because I was not satisfied with it and will have to redo the stand. It’s on hold for a moment, as preparation for my annual sewing event took precedence.

Since Wednesday I’m staying in Canterbury (UK) with my group of sewing friends, having great fun and sewing together. Lot’s of chatting about sewing in general, (specific) patterns, fabrics etc. What could be better?

My project is to sew a winter coat. I made two muslins prior to the event and decided on one of them, with some alterations to the style.

This is the back of the first muslin, a beautiful Marfy pattern with very special design lines. The pattern was in my size by the size charts, but too small. I had let out seams already but there was not enough space at my back and the raglan-type sleeves and couldn’t move my arms properly. Too much alteration needed to be comfortable, so this was not the pattern I have chosen to make.

This is a Burda pattern in a very different style. Shorter, pleats in front and back, regular 2-piece sleeve and collar that is partially left open. Nice idea, but in discussing all options and ideas with my friends, I decided to change the collar.

A quick picture of how it was looking this afternoon. In the meantime the hem is properly done and a sleeve is attached. Not the most flattering look with this dress underneath. (do you see the table with magazines and pictures?) The coat is fully interlined with cotton to make it warmer, as the fabric itself was just a tiny bit too thin. Must remember to take some inside pictures tomorrow.

Our sewing tables and sewing machines.

To the friends who could not join us this year: we’re missing you!

Hope to at least finish the outer layer of the coat tomorrow, which is the last full day we have, time flies too fast for this weekend too.

First steps

Thank you for your kind comments on my posts last week, it feels good to be back again. And a special thank you for those of you who gave suggestions or links to information on making a men’s shirt. Very helpful.

A side note on comments: I can’t reply to individual comments on my computer, somehow that’s only possible viewing my blog on my phone (must be browser specific). As I prefer working/typing on my computer, I don’t often reply to individual comments. Just know that I read and love them all).

Isn’t it strange, that somehow making a men’s shirt felt a bit intimidating? Like Nancy said, I’ve made a lot of shirts for myself. Also I”m not scared of (more) difficult projects and still a men’s shirt sounded like unknown territory. It isn’t actually. Once I was busy with cutting out the pattern pieces, sewing the yoke to the back it’s the same. The technique for sewing the sleeves and the side seams are a bit different, but other then that it’s about finding/using the right interfacing for the collar (heavier than a women’s shirt).

Working with a striped fabric is not new to me and I can get very ocd about matching stripes. Did a good job here I think.

I did the chevron stripes in the way Pam Erny describes it here. Don’t know how I did not think of her tutorials, as they are so good and she’s a professional shirt-maker.

For the other pattern pieces I roughly matched the stripes, cut around the pattern pieces (to which I added seam allowances this time) and then matched the stripes for each individual piece before cutting at the seam allowances.

As you can see the fabric of the two layers shifted a little before the final cutting. A bit more time but for me a necessary step.

Unselfish sewing

Could also have the title “venturing into new territory”.

Recently my son was looking for a shirt to wear to an interview, he has a few but more often he takes one of my husband/his father. The fit is not perfect, as my son has broad shoulders and is taller but in general my husbands’ shirts are nicer quality. In a weak moment I offered him to make a shirt. Perhaps I’ll regret the offer later on. I’ve never sewn for my husband, he’s very satisfied with the fit of rtw and always said not to bother. To be honest, I was happy with that. Now I like the idea to venture into new sewing territory. For the moment I’ve decided on a pattern and found suitable fabric in my collection.

The pattern will be Burda 6874, an envelope pattern. The fabric a good quality cotton, in my collection for I guess 10 years or more.

I washed the fabric, traced the pattern and am almost ready to start sewing. I’ve been reading parts of David Page Coffin’s book (lots of information but so difficult to read) and want to read a bit more on construction as I want to make it a real classic shirt.

Tips and information links very welcome!