Progress

The blouse is near finishing. The fabric is difficult to work with due to the large amount of stretch. The picture below gives an indication of that. I've sewn before with cotton with stretch in it, but never as much as this fabric.

If you read my blog a bit longer already, you know that I want the stripes to match as much as possible. The only way to make sure they do, is using the walking foot for stitching. Just before I took these pictures, I messed up the topstitching of the band of the collar. Time for a break! First I took the topstitching out, then I left the blouse for the moment and will finish it later this weekend.  The dropping shoulder is not my favorite, that I already know from the first fitting. And I'm not sure if the pocket will stay on and/or will get the accompanying pocket on the right side. The pattern is for two pockets with flap, and I have cut them, but am not so sure whether I like the pockets. Too much going on with this fabric is my feeling. What do you think?

BWOF february 2009

In 2008 the January BWOF was the issue that had the most patterns that I liked. I did sew a few of them, but as always, never all that I wanted to make. The February 2009 issue is only the second issue this year, but it could well become my favorite issue this year. It's full with patterns that I'd like to make. Below a few favorites, but there are more that I like.

I received my issue yesterday and if I would have had the time, I would have traced a few patterns already. But it'll have to wait.

A couple of jackets

No. 113 is for petites, so perhaps I'll have to find out how to "de-petite" the pattern. It's designed for women of 1.60 mtr, and I even have to make the default BWOF patterns a bit longer in the waist, as I'm 6 cm longer than their default length size to which they draft their patterns. A bit complicated.

I definitely like the style of no. 115, certainly if you see the picture in linen in the magazine, but for this one I'm unsure whether it suits my figure. A muslin should make that clear.

Tops and blouse/jacket (103)

The first pattern that I'll trace is the blouse 104. I like the collar and it's a great basic style. High on the "to sew list"

For summer I'd like to try 129, the exclusive design of this issue. It's so special but can still be worn on a pair of jeans for a more casual look, or with a skirt or more formal pants for a more festive appearance. Summer is a long way off though, so priority is not high.

All patterns with pictures on models can be seen here (the bwof site).

Not Febrary but the January issue

On special request from Nancy K, the picture and line drawing of the blouse I'm making of the striped fabric. The Bwof site was not showing any pictures last weekend, I had intended to add this in my last post.

Nancy (and all others interested in the collar construction): I did look into the online index for Threads and tried to find this method, but there was no article on collars that I could find that by the description of the article is the method that is shown on the dvd. But it's difficult searching in this index, and I don't have that many old issues myself.

LisaB mentioned in the comments that this method is described on the site "Nancy's notions". I followed here description how to get there and here is a direct link to the instruction. Thanks Lisa.

I liked the Threads dvd, it's with live videos with Louise Cutting and Judith Neukam (Threads editor I believe). The last plays the role of not being too experienced herself, and Louise explaining everything in detail and repeating if asked. I think it's an interesting dvd, but personally I would have liked a book, as I can lay that beside my sewing machine, take up when needed, and use as bed time reading. But I did learn a few new things from this one.

Collar for a shirt

I've started an easy project and a more complicated one. The easy project is a ling erie set. TNT patterns, construction done so many times, piece of cake for me.

The more complicated one is only complicated by the fabric. Remember the spring fabric I showed you last week? I want to make an easy shirt from that fabric. First I washed it, and it came out more looking like seersucker fabric. It has stretch and had shrunken quite a bit too! After a good press it was better, but I'm afraid of all the ironing I will have to do after wearing and washing the shirt. I love to wear shirts, but hate the ironing. 

OK, and what am I going to make of this one? BWOF 118 from the January issue. I'm not quite sure whether this is the right fabric for this style or not. The style is mixed: hanging shoulders but long cuffs on the sleeves. I'll see how it comes out. (I wanted to copy the line drawing, but the BWOF site is too busy it seems, the pictures don't come up )

I sewed the collar using the method that Louise Cutting shows on the Threads DVD with techniques. She makes the upper and under collar as one pattern piece. In this way there's less bulk in the corner of the  point of the collar, resulting in a sharper collar. I do lack a few tools she uses, but the result is quite nice, even though my fabric didn't cooperate.

On the top of the picture is the combined upper and under collar. The arrow points to the point of the collar. As you can see the angle in the collar makes that the under collar is more or less on the bias. How much that will be in this method, depends on the angle.

After interfacing the complete collar the center back seam of the under collar is stitched (I never interface the seam allowances).

Then the seam  of the collar is stitched and the corners trimmed.

Turn, press and toptstitch. I found it quite easy.

 

I never thought there would be so many of you that wanted the Knip mode issue. I'll do the draw tomorrow. Where you are doesn't matter, everyone has a chance and the same chance, but I only have one copy.

 

And finally my blog has been given the Kreativ Blogger award by Lori, Linda and Cindy . I feel very honored of course and am happy you like to read my sewing adventures. But this time I'll won't name any other bloggers. Read Carolyn's post on the topic. She can say it far more beautiful than I can, and I do agree with her completely. Furthermore I realise more and more that I'm not really up to date with new bloggers. I haven't really been exploring other blog lists recently, and by the bloggers other nominate and the reactions to my Knip draw, I'm finding a lot more sewing blogs that I didn't know existed or had not yet added to my reader list. I'm trying to catch up, but time is limited, and I am trying seriously to spend less time on the internet.

Copying a pair of pants (6 - finished)

The pants are finished. I'm satisfied with the result. I think it does look like the original drawing (except for the omitted open slit and the buttons on the front). I do think this would be a great pattern to make in a denim with a contrasting topstitching. Perhaps I'll do that in spring. I like it enough to make it another time, with perhaps a straighter leg. But now, without further ado, a lot of pictures.

And my next project? Certainly something more easy than this.

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What did women wear for small waists?

Alexandra said in a comment on my previous mail that she would want "whatever undergarments they wore to make their hips and waists look like that. (They can keep the bullet bras.)".

It reminded me of a link recently shared on a Dutch sewing forum which shows what women did wear. Alexandra, would you want to wear this (as if you would need it)? I definitely don't want to, even if it would make my hips look smaller.

A Vogue from 1956

I know you might be expecting me showing my pants, but it isn't finished yet. Almost there, but a few little things still have to be done.

Below a few pictures from a Vogue from 1956 which I found on a local site when I looked for some older BWOF issues. One of the sellers also had this Vogue issue from 1956 for sale and I bought it. I'm not really into vintage style sewing (yet), but I do like to see books and magazines with clothes and patterns of the past. Aren't they wonderful feminine clothes? And it's a bit difficult to see in most of the pictures, but the lines are so special on some of these designs.

 

 

Copying a pair of pants (5)

I'll continue showing the steps of constructing these pants. The pockets of the waistband are done. Because the fabric is a bit "beefy", I made the flap not of two layers of fashion fabric, but used black cotton for one side. The welts with the layer of ribbon in between had enough thickness already, so it was important to reduce bulk. I'm hoping to finish these pants this weekend.

Then it's time for something in another color. I've a feeling that I've had black thread on my sewing machine for ages now. This morning I was in a fabric shop, which had the first few bolts with spring fabrics. Couldn't resist to buy a lovey cotton for a shirt with shades of light blue and mint green.