Time out

That's what I'm going to take for the moment. I've decided not to blog for at least a month. No special reason, only that I feel very, very worn out by the constant high pressure of work, sleeping badly as a result. Reading a sewing book or magazine doesn't help anymore to relax. Bad sign, as even the fabric collection is giving me guilty feelings: so much fabric and plans, and nothing done (I'm not one for a large fabric stash). No sewing also means not much to blog about!

The only thing I did the previous week, was making a tutorial for the bra in Dutch (for Dutch readers: you can find it when you click on the link "Uitleg (NL bestanden)" on top of the screen). I'll translate that one sometime soon in English.

That's it for now, for those who blog or write pattern reviews: I'll be following along, but probably will not comment a lot (last month I already was a very occasional commenter).

See you next time in a better spirit on my side I hope.

Easily distracted

Yesterday my Patrones issue arrived, and today October BWOF, what a pleasure for the eye! The Patrones issue is already highly praised by others, and I can only agree that this is a great issue. BWOF has some interesting things, and the jacket that is shown on the front is my favorite. But how many jackets can you make? They take a lot of time preparing and constructing, too little time to make all I like.

The pattern sheets from Patrones were immediately used. There is this dress in a retro print, that I cut tonight from a knit from my stash. I made it shorter, so that it will be a top/t-shirt. Hope it's a wearable "muslin". I used a print too, and think that's a pity really. The lines of the pattern call for a plain fabric with topstitching, color blocking or working with stripes. What do you think?

And if you buy or have a subscription to a magazine, are your plans for sewing as easily altered as mine? No idea this weekend that I would be sewing this top, and now I do, inspired by the magazines.

 

 

Dress 31 of Patrones 272

 

To conclude a few detail pictures of the bra and the accompanying item.

I don't think I'm sewing fast, as some of you seem to think, but I plan my projects and try to use the time that I have well. And having no daily travel to/from work helps of course.

The blouse for example that cost me two hours in construction, was traced, pattern adapted, cut with seam allowances, marked before I started sewing. In the post where I mentioned that I needed two hours for construction, I really mean the actual time needed after all the preparation. Most of the time spent on a garment is before the actual sewing phase.

A bra

It's been a long time since I sewed some lingerie. Too many other projects that took priority, but today I felt like making one.

This is the result, a partial band bra. I took pictures while constructing, and will make a tutorial soon. Some time ago I received an email asking for a way to make a front closing to a bra. I did reply that I had never made such a bra (though I'm one of those women closing my bra in front and then turning it to the back). I think that this is the type of bra that might be the solution to make a front closing. I wouldn't know how to do it on a full band bra.

But now (it's Sunday evening here) it's time to prepare for a working week.

Pictures on me

As promised, the pictures of the jacket on me.

 

Excuse the jeans that are no good companion to this. And I will not post a finished jacket on my dressform anymore, I now see that yesterday's pictures don't really show it well. Even now you don't see the lines of the jacket very well.

I love the lines and the neckline, but as you can see, there are a few pleats here and there. Marji asked what the problem with fabric and interfacing was. I used Vlieseline H410 for the jacket, as I had no more of the interfacing I normally use (as in my last jacket). In the town I live this is not available, and I thought this would be enough. Either it was not, or it has to do with the lining method. I made sure the lining would not be too tight, but it just isn't working. When I used the stitch and flip technique for the first time in the class I took, I used a boucle fabric which is more forgiving probably.

The bagging techique looks more suitable for my way of working. Thank you for the information on Cecilia Podolaks book. It's on my wish list now. Does anyone know whether her method is different from the method Sandra Betzina describes?

A picture of the FBA I did on this jacket.

Now I had a photographer (DD), she also made pictures of the Knip blouse. Alanina asked whether I wanted to make the skirt too, and the answer is yes, I plan to make it soon.

 

And a last picture, not of a project of mine, but an inspiration I found. Origami/folded leather bag by Bottega Veneta. With a price of $ 2750 far beyond what I ever could pay for a bag (it's sold out), but I like it. Don't know if I ever do something with this idea, but liked to share.

Vogue 1063 finished

Earlier than I thought I managed to finish the jacket. No pictures on me yet, lack of good light.

My dressform is a smaller than me, so it has more pleats than when I wear it.

I'm not satisfied, I think the fit is not that bad (I'll show you later this weekend) but it has to do with the combination of fabric and interfacing that is not quite right, and it certainly has to do with the "stitch-and-flip" method of lining. I've decided now that this is just no method for me. I miss the ability of really pressing out seams, of changing a bit while sewing.

Setting in the sleeves was not easy, because I had to do that with the lining too. This because one of the seams of the back ended in the sleeve opening. I finished with bias lining fabric.

The notched collar is made in the way that Claire Shaeffer describes in her book "High fashion sewing secrets". This is a great book, that I highly recommend if you want to explore some special techniques.

All in all I don't think I gained time by using this lining method. I promised myself to sew this jacket again, but I will use a more traditional technique in sewing. I think I'll try bagging a lining on my next jacket, a technique that is described in the Sandra Betzina book "Power sewing" (also very helpful) and is described online too, but which I've never tried.

Anyone any other recommendations for lining techniques?

Comparing instructions

The jacket is not done yet, and I didn't sew anything in between, like the blouse last week. I did make the collar, and one sleeve is inserted. Time is not on my sewing side at the moment. Hope to finish it this weekend, there's just too little time (why do we need sleep?).

Sewing the slit of the sleeve was quite difficult (it was the only part till now where I followed the Vogue instructions), the seam ripper was necessary twice, and understitching amost impossible.

Yesterday in bed I was "reading" the pattern for Vogue 1064, to know whether there were any special things in construction for that one. Both the jacket I'm working on (1063) and the 1064 are Anne Klein patterns, from the most recent  collection and both have a slit in the sleeve. To my surprise the construction for the slit is very different on the 1064 pattern. And now I've seen that, I remember I made a slit before in the way it's described in the 1064 pattern and it's much easier to do. Why didn't I remember that earlier on? I'll do the second sleeve in the same way as the first, but writing down this here, I hope to remember it for the future.

Construction 1063	1064

Blouse in between

Sometimes you need a break from work, and early this afternoon I turned off my computer for a few hours and went to my sewing room (it has its advantages working from home). Didn't feel too well and not inspired to continue the jacket. The collar of the jacket is something I want to do with attention, and not with a slight headache.

Last week I already did all preparation work  and cut the fabric for blouse 16A of the September Knip mode. It is not difficult at all in construction: only ruffles, no collar or cuffs. Just what I needed this afternoon.

This is the result, the ruffle is more narrow than the Knip magazine picture suggests, but now I have looked closely at the picture again, I see that they turned part of the facing too for effect in the picture.

I'll show you the blouse on me later, when I have bought buttons to match and have finished the pants too.

My changes were only an FBA, and in changing didn't see that I lowered the neckline in a way that I can not wear this blouse without a cami. Live and learn.

I cut the ruffles on the bias. Knip mode almost always does those straight of grain, I think bias cut is easier to work with and gives better ruffles.

And Knip wants you to do the inside with a ruffle to the hemline too, I omitted that and did it like this.

Total time of construction was only 2 hours. Sounds like instant gratification, doesn't it.