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First project of 2018

The first project of 2018 is a blouse from Burda magazine, issue November 2017. Line drawing
A full review is up on Pattern review.
I’ve been tempted to try this style garment for a long time. I bought McCalls’s 1661 years ago but in the end doubted whether the style would suit me, being a non-fitted garment. Plus the fact that for the McCalls’ pattern you need fabric which is the same on both sides, not always an easy requirement.
When I saw this pattern in Burda magazine, I knew it was time to finally try it and get out of my comfort zone. I took a fabric that has been lingering in my stash for a long time too. I’m pretty sure I bought it at Walthamstow market in the UK, when I visited my friend Pauline. A visit I can date back to 2012!
The print of the fabric is very much me, and in the past half year I’ve made 3 garments with a combination of black and navy.
Front 2Front 1Inside details
I consider this a pattern that is very well drafted and has been given a lot of thought in the design. It has a lining in the front in camisole style, with darts to shape it. This lining and the construction with pleats at the bottom, make for a neat finish and no need for fabric that has two right sides. A big plus for that.
The instructions on the other hand are aweful, Order of construction as in almost all Burda magazine patterns but they try to tell something about the binding of the neckline (to the mark, tapering…) that I could not really get and I just bound the neckline as I would do for any top.  Next up was the instruction how to attach that lining and the front to the yoke. I could not make sense of it. What I did was fold over the facing of the front and match the armhole of the lining and the front. That made it easy to attach it to the yoke. Which has 2 layers and Burda expects you to hand sew the inside seams. Never heard of the burrito method apparently, which I used and lots of tutorials for it can be found online.
The style is something I’ll have to get used to. It isn’t bad and when the weather gets a bit warmer I’ll certainly give it a try.
It’s a pattern in the tall sizes btw. I didn’t change the length in the body or the sleeves, nice for a change.
If you consider this pattern you might want to make the neckline of the lining a bit higher. I still need to add a snap to prevent unwanted exposure.

Comments

  1. Happy New Year! Nice blouse, beautiful print. Looks great on you. Thanks for all the details about the instructions or lack thereof. Does anyone know why Burda is so scant on the details. We love Burda for their great designs and good pattern-drafting but puhleeze get with the program as far as instructions are concerned.

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  2. Great blouse and well done for battling through the instructions and finishing it. Similar to you I haven't made up this style before as my Style Arc version also requires fabric with 2 sides the same so I really wanted to try this version. Exactly like you I got stuck on the instructions for attaching the lining to the front and it has been put aside as a ufo since then! I remember this pattern was featured on the website as a "Meg's mash-up" feature and she made it look easy so with that and your notes hopefully I can get it done!

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    Replies
    1. I wasn't aware of "Meg's mash-up" posts. Have checked her way of doing it and it's more clear what Burda intented to say. Still think that the way I did it is easier to do with less risk of messing up the neckline of the lining by clipping it. It also convinced me that this pattern would have needed a few photos or drawings to make construction clear.
      Looking forward to your version of it!

      Delete
  3. I also bought that McCall's pattern and have put it off for similar reasons. I love your burda version and especially like that it comes in tall, which as you say is a nice change. I love the fabric. My plans this year include lots of navy and grey.

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  4. Looks pretty good. Can you help me with some links about the burritomethod. Google just gives me that for changing duvet covers.

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    Replies
    1. No problem: https://grainlinestudio.com/2014/08/22/alder-sew-along-day-8-yoke-method-2/

      https://blog.bernina.com/en/2017/06/tutorial-how-to-sew-a-perfect-yoke-with-the-burrito-method/

      I love it as it's a nice and clean finish.

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    2. Now I understand. Thank you very much.

      Delete
  5. What a fantastic blouse, and I love the fabric!

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  6. Lovely blouse and thank you for the tips on the neckline.

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  7. Thanks for your review. I have the pattern printed, taped and ready to go and I completely agree with your thoughts on the construction instructions. BurdaStyle is not for the faint of heart even if their drafting is exceptional. I also have the Jane shirt from Ready to Sew as I can't quite decide between the two. Your shirt is absolutely gorgeous and thanks for sharing!

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    Replies
    1. Oh, had to google that pattern, very nice too! Difficult decision between those two. Make both!

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  8. Lovely. That style doesn't seem to want to go out of style.

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  9. very nice blouse. The inside is very interesting !

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  10. I've now ordered and received the magazine and I'm having second thoughts. I'm 166 cm and I wonder if I have to size it down. How tall are you? It looks just perfect so I'm guessing (fearing) a bit taller than me?

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    Replies
    1. I'm 174 cm which means in between regular sizes (168 in Burda) and tall sizes (176). My upper body is relatively longer: I always add 3 cm to the length in regular patterns for tops/jackets but none for pants.
      Think that at 166 you could remove a little from the length. I usually change length a few cm above the waist and make no changes to the armhole.

      Delete

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Lining a vest

In this post I'll describe how to line a vest. This description is based on the technique that is described in a Burda sewing book I have (in Dutch).

For your information: here you can find this description in a PDF-file.

First the result of the vest, I had no buttons to go with it, will add these later.


The back of the lining is cut 3-4 centimeters from the fold of the fabric. This gives moving space and prevents your outer fabric from pulling.


Sew the center back seam partially: 5 centimeters on the top, and a few centimetres in the waist and on the bottom.



Sew outside of vest as normal, but do not sew the side seams.


Sew lining, without sewing side seams.

Pin and seam vest and lining at front, armholes and back hem. Stitch to the exact seamline of the sideseam, not over it (see next picture)



Make sure you mark the side seam, to be sure that you do not stitch too far.


Clip all round seams, grade seams if your fabric is thick.


Turn the vest by putting your hand through the side s…