Skip to main content

Top finished

The top I drafted is made up in fashion fabric. A remnant piece that I found at the fabric market last year. Did not know the contents but as it was a “Sigrid” fabric (as one of my friends immediately said when I showed the picture in our Whatsapp group) I had to buy it.

It was not complicated to draft and an easy make too. Only the point of the v-neckline requires some thought and I might do it a little different next time. There certainly will be a next time as I like the neckline a lot. The pleat is not something I will repeat too often, but it’s a nice detail.



This was the original inspiration garment.


PS: thanks to those who commented on keeping a diary of my allotment plans a few posts ago. I’m experimenting with OneNote and an (old-fashioned?) paper notebook. It crossed my mind to start a blog about it too, but I’m such a beginner. Plus the time it takes. Might change my mind.

Perhaps I’ll do a closing picture occassionally like this, my tomato seedlings and part of the plot (after some work has been done).




  1. The top worked out nicely! And I love your plot. Wish I had one....

  2. The top is excellent, and is a lovely fit. We had an allotment for about seven years, but I and I thought you might like to consider setting up an Excel spreadsheet and that way you can map out what you plant where each year. I think there is also a website/software which you can use for this. An allotment is addictive and takes up quite a lot of time, not just weeding, digging and planting but also preparing the lovely vegetables you will be picking, and a large freezer and lots of preserving bottles come in very handy. I do hope you get great enjoyment from it, but sewing time might suffer a bit.

  3. I love the top and the fabric. It may be A Sigrid fabric but it's also an Anne fabric! And top.
    I have a largish garden and struggle with it these days. At one point I was quite diligent about planning and recording etc. I'd prefer a gardener now! I didn't sew when I gardened. But good luck with your plans.

  4. WOW....I think this is a dynamite make! Especially like the neckline because of the V and how it hugs the neck.....great fab as well. Good luck with your garden.

  5. Very nice top, the neckline is very flattering I like it a lot. I am with you with the pleat, those pleasts look better when the neckline is lower and wider in my opinion. Tomato seeds already popping up, lets us see how many tomatos you will get:) Tomatos are hard to grow, espicially when you take the organic path.

  6. Beautiful top! That neckline looks perfect on its own, as well as under a variety of jackets (unlike some collars that only work with a certain style of jacket).

  7. The top looks great! It's so nice that you saw something that you liked and was able to easily draft it. It fits you fabulously.

  8. You do such a great job recreating your inspiration pieces.

  9. Gorgeous top and the neckline sit perfectly, so satisfying.


Post a Comment

Comments are very much appreciated! I read all of them, try to answer the questions but don't always have time to react to comments.

Popular posts from this blog

How to sew a sleeveless top with facings

Edit to make this post only about the technique, not my ramblings on other subjects.
This is about making a sleeveless cowl neck top with a facing for both the front and the back. In this way no special finishing of the arm holes is needed. This method is based on Carolyn’s way of making a top with all seams enclosed.

Let me show you how to do this. It’s a good reminder for myself too, I forget when I haven’t done it in a while.
First you need a pattern that has a facing for the back that extends below the armhole. Also the front facing has to extend below the armhole. Easy enough to adapt a pattern, just trace a line about 5 cm (2 inches) below the armhole. The photo below shows you the facing of the back

Step 1: stabilize the back neckline of the back pattern piece

Step 2: with right sides together, sew the neckline of the back and the back facing, press but do not topstitch

Step 3: With right sides together, sew the armhole of the front to the armhole of the front facing.

Step 4:…

Dress Burda June 2018, construction picture

Once in a while a pattern shows up in a magazine that I want to make immediately. This Burda dress from the June issue is one of those.

It’s mainly the linedrawing that’s interesting, as the fabric they used for the magazine issue is not really showing the design lines. There would have been better accent options for the piping they uses.
If you’re like me and in general don’t look at the Burda instructions but do it by experience or your way anyhow, DON’T go on autopilot with this one.
Sleeveless dress: I close shoulder seams at the last possible moment. Not here, as you have to sew the bias band in between the center and side parts. The band has no seam (and I wouldn’t add one, too many layers of fabric), so the shoulder has to be sewn earlier than I’m used to.
Darts: I was inclined to sew all darts as first step and realised really just in time that the front dart is taking up the edge of the band. Front and back band! I was stupified why the angle of the band was not matching th…

Pants fitting, part 1

First, I'd like to thank all who commented on the fitting issues for my pants. I did look at Debbie's site and somehow thought it would not be the "one" answer to my problem, as I've become convinced that there is no one-step solution for me. But I think I have found part of the solution there. Tonight I spent adapting my pattern and making a muslin.

My starting point, after reading all the information was the Threads issue of January 2006, an article by Joyce Murphy Adjusting pants from waist to seat. In this article she describes "body space" as an important point in fitting pants. And it does make sense to me, as women have very different shapes. One needs more space in the front, and others (like me) more in the back.
The picture above shows the body space in my pattern, which is 15 cm. I tried to measure my own bodyspace by taking two rulers, and it is 19 cm, which means that 2 cm more is needed (half of the extra width in the pattern). The article d…