Skip to main content

Two piece sleeve comparison - muslin

Yesterday evening was the perfect moment to sew the muslin with the two different sleeves. Some important football (soccer) match that my family really wanted to see and I am not interested at all. Football on television is out of the room for me ;). I don’t mind others watching, just don’t like it myself.

The result (changed the colors a bit to show the seams better). On my left arm is the more conventional draft, on the right side Suzy Furrer’s ddraft.

 DSC_0787

DSC_0792

The right shoulder is more sloped which is clear in the pictutres and the sleeve even seems to drop off the shoudler. I’ll look into those issues later, the focus for now was on the sleeves. I think the shape of both sleeves is fine. The sleevecap on the more conventional one is higher (it has more ease). In both sleeves a little room can be taken out of the back armhole

In Suzy Furrer’s method the seam in the front is very visible as was to be expected seeing the pattern pieces. I don’t like that and will use the other sleeve. Though if you have Suzy’s class on sleeves, you’d probably be able to figure out how to change it. I will not bother because I have another option already.

Further this is not the jacket style I have in mind, so there will be more to do on that, but it will have to wait a while. The next pictures will probably be from a sunny spot in the south of Europe. Books and knitting in my suitcase, no sewing.

 

DSC_0789  DSC_0798 DSC_0799 DSC_0794

Comments

  1. The conventional sleeve does look better but I like the less ease of Suzy's sleeve cap. Enjoy your break!

    ReplyDelete
  2. Ditto on vote for the conventional sleeve.

    ReplyDelete
  3. That is really interesting. Thanks or posting. I just drafted a new sleeve sloper today for my jacket - but it's just the sloper. I haven't gotten to the 2-piece sleeve yet. I guess it should not surprise me that there are different sleeve designs - the arm & shoulder are pretty complex when you delve into it. I'm just glad my sleeve turned out well enough and I can continue on with drafting the lapel and notched collar. Your vacation sounds nice - have a great time!

    ReplyDelete
  4. Interesting post! I won't get to the sleeve class for a while as the neckline class is taking me so long. When I do, I'll be back to study these pictures more closely.

    ReplyDelete
  5. Thank you for posting this. I haven't got as far as two piece sleeve in my drafting class. I do have Suzy's class (and book) but haven't done that yet. It's difficult to judge completely because as you say one shoulder is more sloped than the other, as is mine. I also prefer the conventional but prefer the less ease of the SF one.

    ReplyDelete
  6. Thank you for sharing your thoughts on this. I have purchased Suzy's classes but haven't started them yet. I am very interested in hearing your thoughts and experiences. I am learning from you as well - thanks!

    ReplyDelete
  7. I don't know if it is too late to comment on this but I prefer the conventional sleeve but I would take a tiny bit of ease out of the very top of the sleeve cap.

    ReplyDelete

Post a Comment

It's always nice to have feedback on what I'm posting about. All comments, also positive criticism, are always highly appreciated.
Leuk als je een berichtje schrijft, altijd leuk om te lezen, ook opbouwende kritiek!

Popular posts from this blog

How to sew a sleeveless top with facings

How lovely to read the nice comments on my jacket. Grumpy without coffee commented that the original artist for the cartoon (which apparently was for books) was Sarah Andersen. Thank you for mentioning it. Beckster asked about the way I closed the center back seam of the lining. I did it by machine. She also said “Although I have not tried it, I have been told that the lining can be made by using the pattern minus the seam allowance and facings.” Well, certainly not without seam allowances, it should be without hem and without the facings. Important is that you have about 5 cm hem in the jacket for this to work. And I would always make a center back pleat. It gives you space to move without the lining pulling on the fabric. Next time I make a jacket I will try to make photos of the process of bagging the lining (Patsijean said she would have liked to see them and probably more would be interested). Might take a while though, see the end of this post.-----------------------------I mad…

Hilarious description

This week I bought the January Burda issue and browsing through it this top, and especially its description had my attention. Written by someone who has no understanding of modern, functional fabrics and never goes to the gym. Don’t know whether it’s the same in the English issue of the magazine, but in Dutch it says “Sport shirts often have the disadvantage to be close fitted.  This restricts your movement. Our suggestion: make this shirt with a full draped back.“I didn’t care to check their description of sports shirts they published before, but thought this one was hilarious.Off to trace a pattern from this magazine (not this one).

Lining a vest

In this post I'll describe how to line a vest. This description is based on the technique that is described in a Burda sewing book I have (in Dutch).

For your information: here you can find this description in a PDF-file.

First the result of the vest, I had no buttons to go with it, will add these later.


The back of the lining is cut 3-4 centimeters from the fold of the fabric. This gives moving space and prevents your outer fabric from pulling.


Sew the center back seam partially: 5 centimeters on the top, and a few centimetres in the waist and on the bottom.



Sew outside of vest as normal, but do not sew the side seams.


Sew lining, without sewing side seams.

Pin and seam vest and lining at front, armholes and back hem. Stitch to the exact seamline of the sideseam, not over it (see next picture)



Make sure you mark the side seam, to be sure that you do not stitch too far.


Clip all round seams, grade seams if your fabric is thick.


Turn the vest by putting your hand through the side s…