Tuesday, June 2, 2015

Combining sloper and pattern

While the weather here in The Netherlands gives the impression we are in another season with lots of wind and rain I finished a sleeveless summer blouse. This is actually my 5th iteration of this style. I have a white linen version, a white embroidered one, a bright colored one, a silk multi colored version and now this navy blue/off white silk.

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This is a combination of a magazine pattern and sloper. I used my sloper, manipulated the shoulder and armhole dart into the bust dart, and then changed the bust dart to a French dart. That’s all I did to the basic draft. Then I took the Ottobre pattern and used the pattern for the collar. The shape of the collar is close to the shape of a lapel collar. I only had to shorten the length of the Ottobre collar. I had to do the pattern draft again because though I’m sure I have the old pattern somewhere, I could not find it when I needed it. It was easier to make the pattern again than keep trying to find it.

The Ottobre pattern I used, #4 from issue 2/2006.


A detail of the side where you see the French dart.


Sewing this is easy, it’s not a jacket so you sew the collar, sandwich it between front and facing and stitch it. I cut the under collar on the bias and made it a bit smaller than the upper collar to get a smooth collar that has a nice fold over the roll line. The fabric is slippery and frays easily too. Therefor I starched it a lot (with a spray starch) before cutting it, using the experience I had with my previous silk blouse. It helped so much to sew it, the layers did not shift any more and the fraying was minimal. Important too because I used French seams, you don’t want the threads coming out of those seams. 

I’m quite sure I’ll get a lot of wear out of this blouse, as I have had from the others too. It’s also so easy to combine with a cardigan on a cooler day.

Isn’t it nice how some fabrics can be a souvenir with memories of where you bought it. The blue/white silk of this new version I bought recently at the fabric market in Utrecht at a meetup with sewing friends (and a special friend from Canada too!) The multicolored version on the left below is a Paris souvenir from the trip there last year, the one on the right was bought with a sewing friend at the fabric market in Goes here in The Netherlands. All fond memories.

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  1. fabulous fit and lovely fabric!

  2. Such a simple but lovely top, the fit and fabric are what make it special.

  3. Beautiful fit and the print is right up my alley. I just love blue and white or cream. Really nice, Sigrid.

  4. Gorgeous. And thank you for the explanation of how you used the sloper and pattern together.

  5. What a great little pattern!

  6. Lovely blouse, Sigrid. I hope to master of nice blouse for myself in the coming months.

  7. Me too loves to combine slopers and patterns to give some special detail on a new piece. Often it only needs another fabric to get a complete other look, as shown by you with your blouses. Great work! I like it!


  8. Such a lovely blouse for a summer day!

  9. Great shirt. I am with you concerning the story behind the fabric.

  10. Lovely. I like both the fabric and the style. I'm having a problem using my sloper usefully! I'm attending a class but that step just doesn't seem to be coveted.

  11. Sorry - covered! not coveted

  12. Fantastic fit as always Sigrid! The print on the first top is mesmerizing. =)

    "Isn’t it nice how some fabrics can be a souvenir with memories of where you bought it."

    Yes! Sadly, I have yet to cut into my souvenir fabrics because I'm afraid of ruining them. Gotta get over that hump!

  13. Beautiful blouses and they all look lovely.

  14. It's such a versatile pattern, it looks lovely in all of the fabrics and the fit is superb.


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