Tuesday, June 2, 2015

Combining sloper and pattern

While the weather here in The Netherlands gives the impression we are in another season with lots of wind and rain I finished a sleeveless summer blouse. This is actually my 5th iteration of this style. I have a white linen version, a white embroidered one, a bright colored one, a silk multi colored version and now this navy blue/off white silk.

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This is a combination of a magazine pattern and sloper. I used my sloper, manipulated the shoulder and armhole dart into the bust dart, and then changed the bust dart to a French dart. That’s all I did to the basic draft. Then I took the Ottobre pattern and used the pattern for the collar. The shape of the collar is close to the shape of a lapel collar. I only had to shorten the length of the Ottobre collar. I had to do the pattern draft again because though I’m sure I have the old pattern somewhere, I could not find it when I needed it. It was easier to make the pattern again than keep trying to find it.

The Ottobre pattern I used, #4 from issue 2/2006.


A detail of the side where you see the French dart.


Sewing this is easy, it’s not a jacket so you sew the collar, sandwich it between front and facing and stitch it. I cut the under collar on the bias and made it a bit smaller than the upper collar to get a smooth collar that has a nice fold over the roll line. The fabric is slippery and frays easily too. Therefor I starched it a lot (with a spray starch) before cutting it, using the experience I had with my previous silk blouse. It helped so much to sew it, the layers did not shift any more and the fraying was minimal. Important too because I used French seams, you don’t want the threads coming out of those seams. 

I’m quite sure I’ll get a lot of wear out of this blouse, as I have had from the others too. It’s also so easy to combine with a cardigan on a cooler day.

Isn’t it nice how some fabrics can be a souvenir with memories of where you bought it. The blue/white silk of this new version I bought recently at the fabric market in Utrecht at a meetup with sewing friends (and a special friend from Canada too!) The multicolored version on the left below is a Paris souvenir from the trip there last year, the one on the right was bought with a sewing friend at the fabric market in Goes here in The Netherlands. All fond memories.

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  1. fabulous fit and lovely fabric!

  2. Such a simple but lovely top, the fit and fabric are what make it special.

  3. Beautiful fit and the print is right up my alley. I just love blue and white or cream. Really nice, Sigrid.

  4. Gorgeous. And thank you for the explanation of how you used the sloper and pattern together.

  5. What a great little pattern!

  6. Lovely blouse, Sigrid. I hope to master of nice blouse for myself in the coming months.

  7. Me too loves to combine slopers and patterns to give some special detail on a new piece. Often it only needs another fabric to get a complete other look, as shown by you with your blouses. Great work! I like it!


  8. Such a lovely blouse for a summer day!

  9. Great shirt. I am with you concerning the story behind the fabric.

  10. Lovely. I like both the fabric and the style. I'm having a problem using my sloper usefully! I'm attending a class but that step just doesn't seem to be coveted.

  11. Sorry - covered! not coveted

  12. Fantastic fit as always Sigrid! The print on the first top is mesmerizing. =)

    "Isn’t it nice how some fabrics can be a souvenir with memories of where you bought it."

    Yes! Sadly, I have yet to cut into my souvenir fabrics because I'm afraid of ruining them. Gotta get over that hump!

  13. Beautiful blouses and they all look lovely.

  14. Love the pattern & memories!

  15. It's such a versatile pattern, it looks lovely in all of the fabrics and the fit is superb.


Comments are very much appreciated! I read all of them, try to answer the questions but don't always have time to react to comments.

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