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Jacket muslin

Remember my struggles with fitting a jacket last year? I lost count of the amount of muslins I made, the tweaks I made to patterns to get it right. These struggles with fit have led me to learning pattern drafting (better). I had some basic knowledge of it from a few lessons in the past, but never did work on it properly.
I’m convinced now it is a good approach for me. Last week I drafted a pattern for a jacket, the same idea of jacket I made  last year. I wearit but after all the work I’ve done on it I still think it could be better. It was made from a Burda pattern which I altered and altered…

The muslin of my self-drafted pattern. Could not find shoulderpads which will help with the fit in the back, but otherwise I’m pretty pleased with the result. Remember this is also not interfaced or otherwise stabilized. Just muslin fabric. Taking it to class tonight to hear what my teacher thinks.

Comments

  1. It looks quite good on the photo! What fabric did you use? ( And where have you bought it. if I may ask it :-)
    Hij staat je mooi!

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  2. Thank you. Suppose you mean the fabric of the jacket of last year. That I bought in Oudewater, it was a remnant piece.

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  3. Quite good and the pads will definitely even out the back. I can't believe you drafted all of this, amazing!

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  4. Wow, your draft is very good. Are there two princess panels in the front and back? Your draft of the two-piece sleeve is great as well. Very impressive!

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  5. You make the best jackets Sigrid!

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  6. Looks good! Hang in there - you will be rewarded with a great pattern that looks great on you! The hard work will be worth it.

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  7. Your muslin is really looking good. Two piece sleeves are render better garments in my opinion - although they take more time.

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  8. This is really good. It's also basic enough that you should be able to make variations without much trouble. Brava!👍

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  9. Looking good. Shoulder pads will make a difference too. I think (personally) it could sit closer around the neck to be more flattering to your slender neck.

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  10. gosh your pattern drafting is getting so good - perhaps you'll finish this before your visit!

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  11. you always amaze me with your skills!

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It's always nice to have feedback on what I'm posting about. All comments, also positive criticism, are always highly appreciated.
Leuk als je een berichtje schrijft, altijd leuk om te lezen, ook opbouwende kritiek!

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Lining a vest

In this post I'll describe how to line a vest. This description is based on the technique that is described in a Burda sewing book I have (in Dutch).

For your information: here you can find this description in a PDF-file.

First the result of the vest, I had no buttons to go with it, will add these later.


The back of the lining is cut 3-4 centimeters from the fold of the fabric. This gives moving space and prevents your outer fabric from pulling.


Sew the center back seam partially: 5 centimeters on the top, and a few centimetres in the waist and on the bottom.



Sew outside of vest as normal, but do not sew the side seams.


Sew lining, without sewing side seams.

Pin and seam vest and lining at front, armholes and back hem. Stitch to the exact seamline of the sideseam, not over it (see next picture)



Make sure you mark the side seam, to be sure that you do not stitch too far.


Clip all round seams, grade seams if your fabric is thick.


Turn the vest by putting your hand through the side s…