Skip to main content

Knip mode dress – quick muslin

The dress got priority and tonight I’ve sewn a quick muslin of the top part. It isn’t that difficult, just a lot of pleats to fold before stitching the shoulder seams. As long as you mark all notches carefully, this is easy. I made this in a little over an hour (cutting and sewing).
But…. again I think they didn’t try the pattern before publishing. The right shoulder is ok. It will be difficult to sew the facing  and I would have constructed it a bit different, and will do that when I sew it in fashion fabric. The left shoulder is not good.  In the photo of our queen wearing the dress you can see that the left shoulder is a bit upright, but moves down again in the back.
I found this picture too, where the left shoulder is folded over.
Knip Mode’s version: very high and the edge of the  facing (which of course is not added to this muslin) would be visible and there’s not enough room for folding.
DSC01261 DSC01260 DSC01259 DSC01258 
My enthousiasm for the pattern has gone a bit. I like the right shoulder but would have to redraft the left shoulder part and the neckline. What do you think? Should this be a “normal” shoulder with perhaps one or two pleats. Would it make it more wearable? I know I have to add some space to the body, it’s too tight and the armholes have seam allowances that I did not cut off. With this result it will definitely not be ready before Easter.


  1. Can you pin in a plain shoulder seam on the left or is the fabric as cut too strange to do that? The neckline sort of looks like it might lay ok if you took out some of the extra fabric on that side.

  2. Is the neckline just too wide? The left shoulder seems to be too far over (even taking into account of the seam allowances still there). Try pulling closer to your neck and see what you think. Overall the bodice is looking good.

  3. It will look different depending on the fabric you chose.Overall I think that the design is interesting and worth some fiddling.

  4. What a pity, I was really drawn to this one, and hoping not too much fiddling would be required. Thanks for trying and letting us know!

  5. I like this design and particularly the stand up collar but like Nancy said, every fabric will drape a bit differently with this design. Stick with it. I think it will be wonderful.


Post a Comment

It's always nice to have feedback on what I'm posting about. All comments, also positive criticism, are always highly appreciated.
Leuk als je een berichtje schrijft, altijd leuk om te lezen, ook opbouwende kritiek!

Popular posts from this blog

How to sew a sleeveless top with facings

How lovely to read the nice comments on my jacket. Grumpy without coffee commented that the original artist for the cartoon (which apparently was for books) was Sarah Andersen. Thank you for mentioning it. Beckster asked about the way I closed the center back seam of the lining. I did it by machine. She also said “Although I have not tried it, I have been told that the lining can be made by using the pattern minus the seam allowance and facings.” Well, certainly not without seam allowances, it should be without hem and without the facings. Important is that you have about 5 cm hem in the jacket for this to work. And I would always make a center back pleat. It gives you space to move without the lining pulling on the fabric. Next time I make a jacket I will try to make photos of the process of bagging the lining (Patsijean said she would have liked to see them and probably more would be interested). Might take a while though, see the end of this post.-----------------------------I mad…

Hilarious description

This week I bought the January Burda issue and browsing through it this top, and especially its description had my attention. Written by someone who has no understanding of modern, functional fabrics and never goes to the gym. Don’t know whether it’s the same in the English issue of the magazine, but in Dutch it says “Sport shirts often have the disadvantage to be close fitted.  This restricts your movement. Our suggestion: make this shirt with a full draped back.“I didn’t care to check their description of sports shirts they published before, but thought this one was hilarious.Off to trace a pattern from this magazine (not this one).

Lining a vest

In this post I'll describe how to line a vest. This description is based on the technique that is described in a Burda sewing book I have (in Dutch).

For your information: here you can find this description in a PDF-file.

First the result of the vest, I had no buttons to go with it, will add these later.

The back of the lining is cut 3-4 centimeters from the fold of the fabric. This gives moving space and prevents your outer fabric from pulling.

Sew the center back seam partially: 5 centimeters on the top, and a few centimetres in the waist and on the bottom.

Sew outside of vest as normal, but do not sew the side seams.

Sew lining, without sewing side seams.

Pin and seam vest and lining at front, armholes and back hem. Stitch to the exact seamline of the sideseam, not over it (see next picture)

Make sure you mark the side seam, to be sure that you do not stitch too far.

Clip all round seams, grade seams if your fabric is thick.

Turn the vest by putting your hand through the side s…