Skip to main content

Comparing fit in the back

 

The shirt I was working in my sewing/fitting class is finished. The initial fit was quite good, only the sleeves gave a bit of trouble. Too much fabric in the back part. Must be my figure, as it’s the same problem I often have with Burda sleeves.

I compared the shirt with the back of a few shirts I made in the past years. I can see quite an improvement, even when I was quite happy with those earlier shirts too when I made them. 

This shirt was not a lot of work making the pattern for based on the sloper. Once I’ve finalized the sleeve I might not need another shirt pattern and use this sloper as the base.

Comments

  1. lovely shirt and you can see the improvement on the sleeves from your other versions.

    I am very impressed with your pattern drafting

    ReplyDelete
  2. I'll be interested to see how you alter this. It's a problem I have frequently too.
    So far, I've decided I need to start at the shoulder and curve the upper back in tapering back out to the underarm. But I could make a hot mess, so who knows.
    Please share your process. I've very impressed with your skills!

    ReplyDelete
  3. what if you flatten the back of the sleeve cap? Other than that your fit in back is excellent.

    ReplyDelete
  4. Having a sloper for all new garments - that is a dream. Looks like you are getting there.

    ReplyDelete
  5. Very interesting to see the change to your fitting skills. Inspiring, too!

    Love the details on this shirt.

    ReplyDelete
  6. Gosh, what a difference. It's really interesting to see the contrast with the earlier garments - lovely fit across the back now.

    ReplyDelete
  7. Wow, what a terrific shirt and how delightful to see your fitting progress over time. Your persistence is inspiring me.

    ReplyDelete

Post a Comment

It's always nice to have feedback on what I'm posting about. All comments, also positive criticism, are always highly appreciated.
Leuk als je een berichtje schrijft, altijd leuk om te lezen, ook opbouwende kritiek!

Popular posts from this blog

How to sew a sleeveless top with facings

How lovely to read the nice comments on my jacket. Grumpy without coffee commented that the original artist for the cartoon (which apparently was for books) was Sarah Andersen. Thank you for mentioning it. Beckster asked about the way I closed the center back seam of the lining. I did it by machine. She also said “Although I have not tried it, I have been told that the lining can be made by using the pattern minus the seam allowance and facings.” Well, certainly not without seam allowances, it should be without hem and without the facings. Important is that you have about 5 cm hem in the jacket for this to work. And I would always make a center back pleat. It gives you space to move without the lining pulling on the fabric. Next time I make a jacket I will try to make photos of the process of bagging the lining (Patsijean said she would have liked to see them and probably more would be interested). Might take a while though, see the end of this post.-----------------------------I mad…

Hilarious description

This week I bought the January Burda issue and browsing through it this top, and especially its description had my attention. Written by someone who has no understanding of modern, functional fabrics and never goes to the gym. Don’t know whether it’s the same in the English issue of the magazine, but in Dutch it says “Sport shirts often have the disadvantage to be close fitted.  This restricts your movement. Our suggestion: make this shirt with a full draped back.“I didn’t care to check their description of sports shirts they published before, but thought this one was hilarious.Off to trace a pattern from this magazine (not this one).

Lining a vest

In this post I'll describe how to line a vest. This description is based on the technique that is described in a Burda sewing book I have (in Dutch).

For your information: here you can find this description in a PDF-file.

First the result of the vest, I had no buttons to go with it, will add these later.


The back of the lining is cut 3-4 centimeters from the fold of the fabric. This gives moving space and prevents your outer fabric from pulling.


Sew the center back seam partially: 5 centimeters on the top, and a few centimetres in the waist and on the bottom.



Sew outside of vest as normal, but do not sew the side seams.


Sew lining, without sewing side seams.

Pin and seam vest and lining at front, armholes and back hem. Stitch to the exact seamline of the sideseam, not over it (see next picture)



Make sure you mark the side seam, to be sure that you do not stitch too far.


Clip all round seams, grade seams if your fabric is thick.


Turn the vest by putting your hand through the side s…