Skip to main content

Another easy top

I’m a bit on a roll with easy tops. Partly because I want to try patterns, partly because I’m into easy sewing at the moment.

This time I made the StyleArc Robin top. An easy top with square neckline, bust and waist darts, cap sleeves and an invisible zipper at the back as it’s designed for a woven fabric.

I made it straight out the envelope, no alterations at first. After finishing I took in the waist darts a bit more, otherwise the fit is good.

The invisible zipper is sewn in the middle of the center back seam, so there is a seam above and below the zipper. I found this a bit more hassle stitching the zipper in the correct postion, but the end result is very good. The back facing is one piece in this way and makes for easy sewing. No hassle with the top of the zipper, facing that has to be turned etc. I’ll remember that for any other top or dress with a center back zipper. If the neckline is wide enough to get your head in and out without the opening of the zipper this is a very neat way.

Look at the line drawing to see the placement of the zipper.

The neckline is higher than the drawing suggests, I will lower it next time. Also I will make sure that the vertical dart in the front is ending a bit lower. Like the Jenny blouse I made the dart ends at the bust point, I prefer that to have a little less marked. No problem in this printed fabric, but in a plain fabric I don’t like that so much.

As this was more or less a trial run, I used a remnant piece of fabric from a dress I made this summer.

The photo’s were taken just before going to the gym, hence the white stripes at the side. They’re from my gym-pants.


  1. Beautiful! I have this pattern on my shopping list for next month, and I was curious about how the zipper worked. It seems like a great pattern for a shell.

  2. That's a good pattern to become a TNT!

  3. Cute! That looks like a very versatile base for many styles.

    About 90% of my finished pics are of me in sweatpants so join the club!

  4. beautiful work, congratulations

  5. The shirt has a nice shape. It really shows off your trim waist. Very nice!

  6. What a great fit!
    The back is amazing!
    absolutely perfekt!

  7. That's a lovely little top. You have made it to fit your curves perfectly. The zip placement is a good idea. I have trouble getting zips done all the way up.

  8. A very cute, well fitting top. And good for you to go to the gym. :)

  9. I am always on the lookout for knit top patterns with shaping. This one makes a very flattering top.

  10. This zipper placement is not one I have seen before.

  11. Really cute top and a super style on you. I love how the cut on sleeves create a perfect hourglass look.

  12. Your top is beautiful and fits you wonderfully. Very nice job, Sigrid.

  13. Your top looks great, the waist shaping is really nice.

  14. A really lovely fit on this--it looks great on you! I need to try inserting the zip in the middle only--I always hate how the little zipper ends stick out at the bottom of the hem of a top with an upside-down zip no matter how neatly I try to do them.

  15. Such a nicely shaped top. I like the zipper placement idea. I just made my first Style Arc pattern--nice fit!

  16. It looks very good. I have yet to try the Style Arc patterns.


Post a Comment

Comments are very much appreciated! I read all of them, try to answer the questions but don't always have time to react to comments.

Popular posts from this blog

How to sew a sleeveless top with facings

Edit to make this post only about the technique, not my ramblings on other subjects.
This is about making a sleeveless cowl neck top with a facing for both the front and the back. In this way no special finishing of the arm holes is needed. This method is based on Carolyn’s way of making a top with all seams enclosed.

Let me show you how to do this. It’s a good reminder for myself too, I forget when I haven’t done it in a while.
First you need a pattern that has a facing for the back that extends below the armhole. Also the front facing has to extend below the armhole. Easy enough to adapt a pattern, just trace a line about 5 cm (2 inches) below the armhole. The photo below shows you the facing of the back

Step 1: stabilize the back neckline of the back pattern piece

Step 2: with right sides together, sew the neckline of the back and the back facing, press but do not topstitch

Step 3: With right sides together, sew the armhole of the front to the armhole of the front facing.

Step 4:…

Dress Burda June 2018, construction picture

Once in a while a pattern shows up in a magazine that I want to make immediately. This Burda dress from the June issue is one of those.

It’s mainly the linedrawing that’s interesting, as the fabric they used for the magazine issue is not really showing the design lines. There would have been better accent options for the piping they uses.
If you’re like me and in general don’t look at the Burda instructions but do it by experience or your way anyhow, DON’T go on autopilot with this one.
Sleeveless dress: I close shoulder seams at the last possible moment. Not here, as you have to sew the bias band in between the center and side parts. The band has no seam (and I wouldn’t add one, too many layers of fabric), so the shoulder has to be sewn earlier than I’m used to.
Darts: I was inclined to sew all darts as first step and realised really just in time that the front dart is taking up the edge of the band. Front and back band! I was stupified why the angle of the band was not matching th…

Pants fitting, part 1

First, I'd like to thank all who commented on the fitting issues for my pants. I did look at Debbie's site and somehow thought it would not be the "one" answer to my problem, as I've become convinced that there is no one-step solution for me. But I think I have found part of the solution there. Tonight I spent adapting my pattern and making a muslin.

My starting point, after reading all the information was the Threads issue of January 2006, an article by Joyce Murphy Adjusting pants from waist to seat. In this article she describes "body space" as an important point in fitting pants. And it does make sense to me, as women have very different shapes. One needs more space in the front, and others (like me) more in the back.
The picture above shows the body space in my pattern, which is 15 cm. I tried to measure my own bodyspace by taking two rulers, and it is 19 cm, which means that 2 cm more is needed (half of the extra width in the pattern). The article d…