Skip to main content

Making a sleeve slit in a shirt

Guess what my next project is? A blouse.  This time I’m making the sleeve slit that is more common in womens blouses/shirts. Which made me think to write this little tutorial. It is way is a little different from what I’ve learned to do, but I think it’s very easy.
For my Dutch readers: the same tutorial is available in Dutch here.
1. Basic pieces: the sleeve (in my pictures a piece of cotton that was near) and a rectangle 4 cm wide for the slit facing at least twice as long as the length of the slit. My piece is a bit longer because I find it easier to work that way.

2. Pin the sleeve on the facing, right sides together. The ends are matching, the middle corner is 0.5 cm from the edge. Fold the sleeve in a way that no real fold is made. 3. Stitch 0.5 cm from the edge. At the center the stitches just touch the fabric of the sleeve. 4. Press the seams towards the opening 5. Press a seam in the split facing 6. Fold and stitch-in-the-ditch from the right side of the sleeve.  This is hardly visible if you do it in matching thread. My black on white is only for these pictures ;) This is the way the inside looks now:
7. Stitch a diagonal line at the top of the facing. This will prevent stress on the weakest part of the construction.
 
8. Fold one side inwards (on the side of the widest part of the sleeve) and press. Ready! It doesn’t take long, but don’t forget to press in different stages for a neat result.

Comments

  1. This is fabulous Sigrid! I just received some fabric in the post which is specifically for a button-up shirt - so this will absolutely come in handy!

    ReplyDelete
  2. Thanks for the tutorial! There's a blouse in my future somewhere, so I'll have to keep this bookmarked so that I can find it then! ;-)

    ReplyDelete
  3. I'm so ready to try a sleeve like this! I saw the most beautiful full length sleeve slit at a Cynthia Rowley boutique over the weekend.
    You did an amazing job!

    ReplyDelete
  4. Thanks for a great tutorial, it will be most helpful.

    ReplyDelete
  5. I've been working on blouses and jackets, so this is definitely an addition to my "How to" bookmarks! Thanks.

    Sue
    SuesSewingStudio.blogspot.com

    ReplyDelete
  6. What a great tutorial. I do my sleeves the same way - it's so straightforward and simple once you know how!

    ReplyDelete
  7. I made a placket like this one many years ago. Since I keep putting blouses on my sewing this tutoial reminding me of this method will come in handy.

    ReplyDelete
  8. Great tutorial - thanks for sharing!
    Bookmarked, and printed-off for future reference :)

    ReplyDelete
  9. Oh! If only this was a week earlier! I just made my first shirt, and I made a real mess of the sleeve slit. This is a great tutorial with so many helpful photos. Thanks Sigrid!

    ReplyDelete
  10. Great tutorial, Sigrid! If the blogosphere is a wonderful place to learn and share and this is made ​​possible by the kind and generous people like you.

    ReplyDelete
  11. This is the only way I ever finished sleeve slits on a woman's blouse, until quite recently when I began doing them as men's shirts are done, with a placket. It is neat and tidy and -- to me -- far less trouble than lining up the facing piece for a placket. Takes less fabric, too. It used to be the method included in all commercial pattern instructions for women's blouses. I like that you can introduce a flash of color or pattern in the slit binding, that is only seen when you open or shut the cuff.

    ReplyDelete
  12. Thanks so much for this. I just made my first button up blouse and followed the pattern's instructions for the slit in the sleeve and it was very difficult. I'm saving your tutorial for the next time!

    ReplyDelete
  13. Thank you so much -- I have a nice pattern with a slit and didn't know how to finish it. I used your tutorial today and it came out really beautifully. Thank you for taking the time to document and post!

    ReplyDelete
  14. thank you!!!! this help me, for my shirt!!!tahnk you very much!!!!

    ReplyDelete

Post a Comment

Comments are very much appreciated! I read all of them, try to answer the questions but don't always have time to react to comments.

Popular posts from this blog

How to sew a sleeveless top with facings

Edit to make this post only about the technique, not my ramblings on other subjects.
This is about making a sleeveless cowl neck top with a facing for both the front and the back. In this way no special finishing of the arm holes is needed. This method is based on Carolyn’s way of making a top with all seams enclosed.



Let me show you how to do this. It’s a good reminder for myself too, I forget when I haven’t done it in a while.
First you need a pattern that has a facing for the back that extends below the armhole. Also the front facing has to extend below the armhole. Easy enough to adapt a pattern, just trace a line about 5 cm (2 inches) below the armhole. The photo below shows you the facing of the back

Step 1: stabilize the back neckline of the back pattern piece

Step 2: with right sides together, sew the neckline of the back and the back facing, press but do not topstitch

Step 3: With right sides together, sew the armhole of the front to the armhole of the front facing.

Step 4:…

Dress Burda June 2018, construction picture

Once in a while a pattern shows up in a magazine that I want to make immediately. This Burda dress from the June issue is one of those.

It’s mainly the linedrawing that’s interesting, as the fabric they used for the magazine issue is not really showing the design lines. There would have been better accent options for the piping they uses.
If you’re like me and in general don’t look at the Burda instructions but do it by experience or your way anyhow, DON’T go on autopilot with this one.
Sleeveless dress: I close shoulder seams at the last possible moment. Not here, as you have to sew the bias band in between the center and side parts. The band has no seam (and I wouldn’t add one, too many layers of fabric), so the shoulder has to be sewn earlier than I’m used to.
Darts: I was inclined to sew all darts as first step and realised really just in time that the front dart is taking up the edge of the band. Front and back band! I was stupified why the angle of the band was not matching th…

Pants fitting, part 1

First, I'd like to thank all who commented on the fitting issues for my pants. I did look at Debbie's site and somehow thought it would not be the "one" answer to my problem, as I've become convinced that there is no one-step solution for me. But I think I have found part of the solution there. Tonight I spent adapting my pattern and making a muslin.






My starting point, after reading all the information was the Threads issue of January 2006, an article by Joyce Murphy Adjusting pants from waist to seat. In this article she describes "body space" as an important point in fitting pants. And it does make sense to me, as women have very different shapes. One needs more space in the front, and others (like me) more in the back.
The picture above shows the body space in my pattern, which is 15 cm. I tried to measure my own bodyspace by taking two rulers, and it is 19 cm, which means that 2 cm more is needed (half of the extra width in the pattern). The article d…