Skip to main content

Flattening a seam

The fabric for my coat is a heavy wool, after pressing the seams open, they don’t stay flat. I thought of handstitching them down, when another solution came to my mind. On the Threads dvd Sewing techniques Louise Cutting shows a method to hem a garment with two layers of fusible interfacing. This week I was reminded to this technique by my friend Valerie, who showed me the skirt she made in real life. She used this technique for the hem. I interpreted it for use in the seams of my coat.

This picture shows the  pressed seams not staying flat. I used white because I was out of black fusible interfacing, it will not show in my fabric, so it didn’t matter.

Two layers of interfacing, fusible side on the outside, stitched with long lines of straight stitches (only for convenience, you could do it one at a time)

Cut strips of the interfacing, close to the stitching line, and as wide as the seam or a little less.

Put a strip under the seam allowance, with the stitched line on the outside.

Press the seam allowance.

After pressing, the seam remains flat.

Tip: I have mainly straight seams on my coat and used the interfacing straight of grain. If you have curved seams, make strips of fusible interfacing from a piece of interfacing that is cut on the bias. Then you will be able to follow the curve better.

As said, you could use the same technique to hem a garment.

And answers to questions: the fabric of the piping is a kind of black velvet, the only fabric in the right kind of black that was not too thick. In the meantime I’ve made another example with a narrower buttonhole. And I’ll be playing with fabric straight of grain and on the bias. The tabs will be on the bias, while the sleeves are straight of grain for example.


  1. Great technique - that's another one to add to my repertoire. Did you try using a clapper? My sewing life was revolutionized when I purchased this piece of pressing equipment.

  2. Love it - smart use of fusibles and with the bulk of the fabric, it doesn't add that much extra.

  3. Could you just use heming web? It would stick it down and would not add much to the thickness?

  4. very clever! I will have to try this.

  5. very clever.
    You are making a lot of progress on 2 major projects.

  6. Oh that's a good technique, but it's a real pain. What you need is fusible tape.. comes in big fat rolls. Such an animal can be found easier in quilt shops. But possibly not in Europe alas :-(. Maybe a US friend can send 500 yards :-)?

  7. Why not use 'instrijkbaar zoomband'? You can buy it at the HEMA. I find it useless for hemming, but perfect for this kind of thing. (It helps against ravelling, too.)

  8. What a clever technique. I find fusible tape can sometimes give out, so I like the option of using interfacing.

  9. Great idea!!! THanks for sharing it.


Post a Comment

It's always nice to have feedback on what I'm posting about. All comments, also positive criticism, are always highly appreciated.
Leuk als je een berichtje schrijft, altijd leuk om te lezen, ook opbouwende kritiek!

Popular posts from this blog

How to sew a sleeveless top with facings

How lovely to read the nice comments on my jacket. Grumpy without coffee commented that the original artist for the cartoon (which apparently was for books) was Sarah Andersen. Thank you for mentioning it. Beckster asked about the way I closed the center back seam of the lining. I did it by machine. She also said “Although I have not tried it, I have been told that the lining can be made by using the pattern minus the seam allowance and facings.” Well, certainly not without seam allowances, it should be without hem and without the facings. Important is that you have about 5 cm hem in the jacket for this to work. And I would always make a center back pleat. It gives you space to move without the lining pulling on the fabric. Next time I make a jacket I will try to make photos of the process of bagging the lining (Patsijean said she would have liked to see them and probably more would be interested). Might take a while though, see the end of this post.-----------------------------I mad…

Dress Burda June 2018, construction picture

Once in a while a pattern shows up in a magazine that I want to make immediately. This Burda dress from the June issue is one of those.It’s mainly the linedrawing that’s interesting, as the fabric they used for the magazine issue is not really showing the design lines. There would have been better accent options for the piping they uses. If you’re like me and in general don’t look at the Burda instructions but do it by experience or your way anyhow, DON’T go on autopilot with this one. Sleeveless dress: I close shoulder seams at the last possible moment. Not here, as you have to sew the bias band in between the center and side parts. The band has no seam (and I wouldn’t add one, too many layers of fabric), so the shoulder has to be sewn earlier than I’m used to.Darts: I was inclined to sew all darts as first step and realised really just in time that the front dart is taking up the edge of the band. Front and back band! I was stupified why the angle of the band was not matching the si…

Hilarious description

This week I bought the January Burda issue and browsing through it this top, and especially its description had my attention. Written by someone who has no understanding of modern, functional fabrics and never goes to the gym. Don’t know whether it’s the same in the English issue of the magazine, but in Dutch it says “Sport shirts often have the disadvantage to be close fitted.  This restricts your movement. Our suggestion: make this shirt with a full draped back.“I didn’t care to check their description of sports shirts they published before, but thought this one was hilarious.Off to trace a pattern from this magazine (not this one).