Thursday, September 3, 2009

Jacket muslin

First let me thank you for your advice on treating my fabric. Special thanks to Marie-Christine for her extensive reply. She could well be right that it could be washed, but I think that will follow the majority and only steam the fabric. I'm too afraid it will not be the same after washing. But I'll follow her advice next time when I do have some extra fabric to test with.

I'v decided on the classic Vogue pattern 7975, view B (short length, long sleeves, no overlapping center front). I ordered it this weekend and it arrived Tuesday (from Naaipatronen who have 25% discount this month on Vogue patterns, the price then is still much higher than my US readers pay, but shipping isn't as high). Time to make a muslin. I realize that you haven't seen the progress on the dress yet, but that will come later.



I started with a size 14. On the pattern a final bust circumference of 105 cm is indicated, what I thought would be enough ease (8 cm). By size chart I would need 16, with a final measurement of 110 cm.

In the pictures the left side of the jacket (my left side) is the original size 14. I have taken space out of the upper half of the princess seam both in the front and in the back, because of too much space in the shoulder area and back. Think it should be a bit more, but the shoulder width seems ok now. I used a small shoulderpad, simply need that with my sloping shoulders.

What do you think? When I put the muslin on I thought it was OK, but seeing the pictures I'm thinking I should cut a size 12 for the upper part and do an FBA. 

For time reasons I will not be sewing this one in the classic Chanel way. It seems that you need 100-200 hours for that, and I want this one to be ready three weeks from now. Though I can't see needing more than 100 hours when you machine quilt the pieces.

(This fabric gets wrinkles when you only look at it!)



  1. I am no expert but it definitely looks as if you could afford to go down a size in the back and upper chest. Other than that it looks great! A Chanel jacket is on my 'one day' list, I love watching others produce them :-)

  2. Sigrid, IMHO the shoulders, upper front and back seem too big. The rest of the jacket though looks really good. You may want to do what I do and cut a size 12 for the shoulders and neck only. Start tapering from the 14 from about the bottom third of the armhole, up to the 12 by the shoulders. Use the size 12 neck. HTH

  3. It definitely looks like the jacket is a too large in the chest area. I would pinch out a pleat, front and back, where the folds are occuring, and transfer to the pattern.

  4. I concur, the jacket is too big in the shoulders and the upper back. Even cutting a 12 you may have to narrow the shoulders too. The rest of the jacket fits beautifully. The bust is as the right place; there are no drag lines.

  5. I agree with Sew4Fun...even before I read her post!

  6. Yes, I agree too big for you in the upper chest and back.
    I have been wanting to make a real "Chanel" jacket for along time. But I am notorious for joing sew alongs and not getting anything done. ;(

  7. I think you could probably make the needed changes just in the princess seams above the bust. You would need to take more out of the side sections than from the center. You would also end up with narrower shoulders too, with this method.

  8. It could possibly be taken in a little more at the back, just below the shoulders. But if you think you will wear a blouse underneath, try it on with the undergarment first.

  9. Definitely go down at least a size Sigrid. Vogue patterns aren't kidding when they say they're made for a B-cup, so you really have to do an FBA any time you want something to fit..
    The best method is to measure the upper chest to find the correct size, but you should do that comparison with a fitted shirt pattern and not a jacket.

  10. Chanel jackets are supposed to fit very snugly.

    When I get around to making my latest faux-Chanel I too will be taking shortcuts in sewing. So my jacket will be more Chanel RTW than Chanel couture. Which is fine with me.

  11. Hi Sigrid,
    The suggestion to cut a new muslin with a 12 on top would be logical, but to make the most of your sewing time, I wouldn't start over with a new size. Just alter the muslin you've already started. Those princess seams provide you with the perfect opportunity to adjust the shoulder width, tapering as you go, without beginning anew, and likely needing to make adjustments anyway. I teach college fitting classes, and I see people trying to take the hard way must too often! Your jacket will be beautiful!


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