Wednesday, September 9, 2009

Chanel style jacket - some progress

Not much to show, but as I want to keep track of what I'm doing for myself yet another jacket post.

I tried the quilting with the lining but my fabric is not thick enough for that. Using a brown/grey thread didn't show the thread really, but it showed unevenness, though I used a walking foot for stitching. I tried a few rows on the upper sleeve, but took it all out again.

Time for another approach. The fabric could use some interfacing now it wouldn't be quilted. What to use? I had two options in my supplies and after testing on a scrap of fabric I used Pro-sheer elegance from SewExciting. Like Pam says on her website, it barely effects the drape of the fabric, yet it gives a bit of support. For me this was the first time that I used this interfacing, and want more, it's very good.

All vertical seams are now done, The shoulder seams I only basted. Mostly I'll use the construction technique that was described in Threads magazine no. 128, with a little variation.

I checked the fit and it's good, considering that the sleeves are not set in yet and the seams are only lighty pressed.

On the pictures you can see that I thread traced the pieces with a double tracing thread (I did cut my fabric in a double layer). I fused the interfacing between those lines and take out the threads before stitching (had I known before that I would interface the pieces, I would have worked different).

Next step is trimming the very wide seam allowances and catch stitch them. I did that on a jacket I've sewn last year, and found that it made sure the seams didn't show.


A few reactions to the comments on the trim: Ruta: thanks for mentioning the store in Utrecht, I will certainly go there (though won't make it in time for this jacket). Katherine H, thanks for pointing to the alternatives for trim, your jacket is wonderful, very special with the trim. And KayB: I'm not offended by your comment, I do like the honest opinion. I'm doing the crocheting now with longer treads (bought extra fabric) and in the final version there will be no threads hanging out of the trim.


  1. Looking good! I actually like the bits sticking out of your trim sample.

  2. Your jacket is coming along well. Can someone please point me to a source on quilting the lining? I keep seeing references to it, but don't know what is involved. Also I loved your idea for the trim. It was modern and edgy. Sometimes more traditional trims on the box jacket can look mumsy.

  3. The jacket is looking great. I was wondering about quilting on thinner fabrics.
    The options for trim are endless--I saw a crochet trim on a Chanel and it was lovely!

  4. You're making good progress. I admire all the women who are taking part in the Chanel Sew-Along.

  5. Your jacket is coming along nicely. The whole quilting process is intiminating to me. But eventually I'm going to try the "chanel jacket" technique. I'm glad you are documentating your process. Thanks,