Friday, December 21, 2007

Sewing plans

Well, I got some sewing done today. When I cut my black skirt, I also cut a vest from the Knip Mode magazine. Not to wear together, but there was enough fabric left for this vest, which I wanted to make. I made the outer shell and cut the lining (the black dotted fabric), and hope to finish this project this weekend.
On the end of this post there is a description how I made the single welt pocket. I'll write another post to show how I do the lining for such a vest.

There are quite a few other projects that need to be finished and one for this weekend too: my DD wants to make/have a new dress for Christmas and I agreed to make one from the November BWOF issue. Fuchsia pink with black bow is the idea. No opportunity to get bored I guess..... Planning could have been better.

This week I gave up on the idea of finishing my jacket before Christmas: I was misinterpreting something in my Stitch and flip jacket class on Pattern Review, and it became only clear to me what I was not getting at the end of the course. I'm still convinced that it will be a fine jacket, I just waited till it became clear, I've not cut something very wrong or something like that, but there's simply not enough time left. And it's not as if I had nothing to wear!

Further my denim skirt to finish, a lingerie set I want to make and last but not least: I want to try making a bag (how long is holiday season? One month, please tell me it is!).
Call me a fool, but I want to make this bag, while I never made one before. Or is this really not a good idea? Anyone experiences with bag making, please tell me!

Some technique to share: a single welt pocket.
Blogger is not very good in layout with pictures, so the description I have put in a pdf-file too, which you can find here.

Prepare the area for the pocket
Reinforce pocket opening by ironing a 4 cm wide fusible interfacing to the wrong side of fabric
Mark the pocket placement with chalk lines on the wrong side

In my garment there's a dart crossing the pocket. I slashed this open and pressed before applying the interfacing to prevent bulk on one side.

Baste along these chalk lines, so that you can see the lines on the front of the garment. The distances between the horizontal lines is the height of the welt.

Fold strip for welt in half lengthwise, wrong side inside and press .
Mark the width of the welt with chalk or baste this line (no separate picture, you can see it on the picture below)

Pin welt on right side along placement line.

On right side, pin fabric for back pocket over attachment line, right sides together.

On wrong side stitch horizontal lines on the basted lines, exactly to the corner. Use smaller stitches towards the corner and make sure the length is exact.

Cut the fabric between line, make a diagonal clip towards the corner. Don't cut the welt.

I graded the seams of the welt, because the fabric is a bit thick. When the fabric is not that thick, you can leave this step out.

Pull/fold the welt and back pocket part to the inside. Press the seamlines.
Pin the pocket lining to the seam of the welt, stitch.

From the inside, pin lining and back pocket to the triangle and the welt.
Stitch very close to the front of garment, preferably with a zipper foot. Stitch pocket too.

Press from the right side. The pocket is finished.


  1. Very nice pocket - I will definitely keep this in mind next time I do one and I'm doing research before I sew.

    I do love your lining - unexpected for tailored vest.

  2. Sigrid your pocket is beautiful!
    I am sure you won't have any trouble whatsoever making this bag. I find that making bags, no matter how "tricky" they can seem, is much easier than making garments.

  3. Thanks for the pocket tutorial (and in PDF, very handy to keep in the files).

  4. Great tutorial and flawless results! Well done Sigrid!

  5. I hopelessly looked for such a tutorial when I made some and it took me a week to get it right ;o) WHat a simple and clear way to explain stuff. Thanks and Merry Christmas.