Monday, November 10, 2014

Jacket – self drafted

I’m still going to class working on pattern drafting. The past weeks I worked on a pattern for a jacket, inspired by a Marfy pattern. It is a complicated pattern and it was not an easy task to make it. I’m very happy with the result though.

My version of the jacket has princess seams on front and back, one dart in the front (not continuing below the pocket), no side seam, welt pockets and notched collar. The original has a flap in the pocket, two darts and probably bound buttonholes.
After all work on the pattern drafting constructing the jacket was not very difficult, I’ve made quite a lot of jackets before and I decided not to use tailoring techniques, speeding up the process of construction a bit too.
     
The jacket on me, it’s difficult to take pictures with the sun giving such strong shadows and changing the color. Inside is not a real alternative, the light there is not good either in November.
I think the back could use a tiny bit of extra space at the hip. Otherwise the fit is quite good. The fabric I bought when meeting my sewing friends Pauline and Clare about two years ago. It’s a great quality for a jacket in a nice brown (not my usual color, I have to make one or two skirts to go with this).
For this jacket I made a muslin first and it needed almost no alterations, something I can’t say for commercial patterns. I want to make another jacket soon to see/feel the difference of another amount of ease (this one has only 6 centimeters bust ease, I wanted a fitted jacket). It takes a bit more time in the drafting phase, but for me that time is well spent as it did not take me 2 or 3 muslins to get where I wanted.
 
A few details: the roll line for the collar, the sleeve and the lining. The collar was made using a Threads article by Jan Schoen. This article on their website describes this method.

23 comments:

  1. Oh, you clever, clever girl, you! What a splendid jacket and as for drafting your own pattern, how fab is that? Such a lovely jacket and such a good argument for having your own block to work from.

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  2. It's stunning! Great fabric and fit.
    You can use this fitted jacket and make style changes so that you don't have to draft from scratch every time. It's a wonderful shape for you.

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  3. so lovely! this is such an amazing project :)

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  4. What a beautiful jacket! I love your fabric choices.

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  5. Gorgeous project, inside and out! Inspirational!

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  6. Exquisite jacket. I like the couture details, the perfect sleeves, the little waist defining welt pockets. Like Nancy said you could use this again with style modifications. Time well spent!

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  7. Fabulous! The course is paying off!

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  8. Your talent is fabulous !!!
    Well worth the hard work

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  9. Gorgeous! The color and fabric are lovely and the fit could not be any more perfect. Beautiful work, Sigrid!

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  10. I agree with all the other comments so so good

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  11. Such a lovely jacket Sigrid! The fit is great, of course, and the style suits you so well, as does the colour. Truly gorgeous.

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  12. I really like your jacket! I know you had trouble in the past with the back fitting and this looks wonderful. Hope to see many more

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  13. Love your jacket and the fit looks perfect!

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  14. Beautiful jacket! Very well done!

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  15. This is gorgeous! Perfect jacket style for you, the fit is great, and the fabric is just beautiful. As always, Sigrid, your work is phenomenal.

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  16. Great jacket! I love your jacquard fabric - what is it? Cotton? wool? blend? very curious.

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  17. What a gorgeous jacket on you. Congrats on such a wonderful result. Your drafting work has really paid off beautifully.

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  18. Fantastic jacket Sigrid! Absolutely professional inside and out.
    By the way, I also love the underwear you are making.

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  19. What a beautiful jacket! The drafting, the sewing, and the fabric. Beautiful!

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  20. wow, what a beautiful jacket and as Viv said soooooo clever - your talents are wasted in IT.

    love it

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  21. Sigrid, your jacket is just stunning. The fabric and construction and fit are all superb. well done!

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  22. You should take pride in this jacket! Love everything about it from cut, to fit and lining technique.

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It's always nice to have feedback on what I'm posting about. All comments, also positive criticism, are always highly appreciated.
Leuk als je een berichtje schrijft, altijd leuk om te lezen, ook opbouwende kritiek!