I’m still going to class working on pattern drafting. The past weeks I worked on a pattern for a jacket, inspired by a Marfy pattern. It is a complicated pattern and it was not an easy task to make it. I’m very happy with the result though.
My version of the jacket has princess seams on front and back, one dart in the front (not continuing below the pocket), no side seam, welt pockets and notched collar. The original has a flap in the pocket, two darts and probably bound buttonholes.
After all work on the pattern drafting constructing the jacket was not very difficult, I’ve made quite a lot of jackets before and I decided not to use tailoring techniques, speeding up the process of construction a bit too.
The jacket on me, it’s difficult to take pictures with the sun giving such strong shadows and changing the color. Inside is not a real alternative, the light there is not good either in November.
I think the back could use a tiny bit of extra space at the hip. Otherwise the fit is quite good. The fabric I bought when meeting my sewing friends Pauline and Clare about two years ago. It’s a great quality for a jacket in a nice brown (not my usual color, I have to make one or two skirts to go with this).
For this jacket I made a muslin first and it needed almost no alterations, something I can’t say for commercial patterns. I want to make another jacket soon to see/feel the difference of another amount of ease (this one has only 6 centimeters bust ease, I wanted a fitted jacket). It takes a bit more time in the drafting phase, but for me that time is well spent as it did not take me 2 or 3 muslins to get where I wanted.
A few details: the roll line for the collar, the sleeve and the lining. The collar was made using a Threads article by Jan Schoen. This article on their website describes this method.