First let me thank you for your advice on treating my fabric. Special thanks to Marie-Christine for her extensive reply. She could well be right that it could be washed, but I think that will follow the majority and only steam the fabric. I'm too afraid it will not be the same after washing. But I'll follow her advice next time when I do have some extra fabric to test with.
I'v decided on the classic Vogue pattern 7975, view B (short length, long sleeves, no overlapping center front). I ordered it this weekend and it arrived Tuesday (from Naaipatronen who have 25% discount this month on Vogue patterns, the price then is still much higher than my US readers pay, but shipping isn't as high). Time to make a muslin. I realize that you haven't seen the progress on the dress yet, but that will come later.
I started with a size 14. On the pattern a final bust circumference of 105 cm is indicated, what I thought would be enough ease (8 cm). By size chart I would need 16, with a final measurement of 110 cm.
In the pictures the left side of the jacket (my left side) is the original size 14. I have taken space out of the upper half of the princess seam both in the front and in the back, because of too much space in the shoulder area and back. Think it should be a bit more, but the shoulder width seems ok now. I used a small shoulderpad, simply need that with my sloping shoulders.
What do you think? When I put the muslin on I thought it was OK, but seeing the pictures I'm thinking I should cut a size 12 for the upper part and do an FBA.
For time reasons I will not be sewing this one in the classic Chanel way. It seems that you need 100-200 hours for that, and I want this one to be ready three weeks from now. Though I can't see needing more than 100 hours when you machine quilt the pieces.
(This fabric gets wrinkles when you only look at it!)