Black pants

The black pair of pants are finished. As you all probably know, black is very difficult to photograph. The pictures DD took only show the general image, the details are completely lost. Making the image lighter didn't help. Next time I must make sure the picture is made during the daylight hours, that may be better.

The detail pictures I took earlier are better, so this is what it looks like. Personally I love the combination with the red belt and shoes. The blouse is too wide rtw one. Since buying this I think fashion has changed to closer fitting blouses, or my perception of a good fitting blouse has changed. Two good white blouses needed ironing, and I was just lazy.

I didn't finish the waist as described in the pattern (see picture in previous post), but closed the pleat to the top. This time I made the back welt pockets, and though not perfect, they are fine. Never use those pockets, but I like the look of a rtw detail.

The waistband was finished with a bit of the red lining I will use for my next jacket, that you can see in the picture below. It's the new version of the Vogue jacket, and I've been working on this on and of for weeks now. The start was in my bad sewing weeks, and I made some serious mistakes, including cutting the wrong back pattern piece. This resulted in buying more of the fabric, and the supplier had only just over a yard left! Lucky me.

I want to "bag the lining" and are just postponing that step, it's a first for me, and having trouble to test the waters (as I believe the expression is).

Doing easy pieces

Hi, it didn't take as long as I thought to feel better. Thank you all so much for your nice comments and some kind emails I received, it felt good to know you understood. I did sew a bit and must say that the week before I stopped blogging and the first week after I only made very stupid mistakes. We all do that from time to time, but this was clearly due to not paying attention and wanting to do things too quickly, because I "had to sew".

The workload is back to normal, I started fitness again seriously and in general feel much more at ease. I can tell you my family is very happy about that. DD told me that I didn't cook properly anymore, no experiments with new recipes, just the things we know too well all the time.... And always working.

Good, this was a pretty serious warning of being on the way being overworked, and I decided that I won't have that. Took some time off in the school holiday of my children, made a nice walk with DH and told myself work is important, but should come second, not first.

This weekend I took some serious sewing time again, starting with easy pieces. This Jalie 2566 twinset is the result.

 

I have a lot of fabric with black in my stash, and try to make some coordinating pieces. There is a new SWAP contest started at Stitchers Guild, and on Pattern Review there's the Endless combinations contest, but I won't enter any of these. I like the concept, but will just sew what I like and not commit myself. I already feel bad about not finishing my coat in the Great Coat Sew Along.

I'm in need of a few good pair of pants, and this will be the next one, in black. I made it before (before writing reviews or blogging), and worn the pants till last year, when I had to throw it away because it was old and worn. But it was one of my favorites. Time for a replacement.

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Time out

That's what I'm going to take for the moment. I've decided not to blog for at least a month. No special reason, only that I feel very, very worn out by the constant high pressure of work, sleeping badly as a result. Reading a sewing book or magazine doesn't help anymore to relax. Bad sign, as even the fabric collection is giving me guilty feelings: so much fabric and plans, and nothing done (I'm not one for a large fabric stash). No sewing also means not much to blog about!

The only thing I did the previous week, was making a tutorial for the bra in Dutch (for Dutch readers: you can find it when you click on the link "Uitleg (NL bestanden)" on top of the screen). I'll translate that one sometime soon in English.

That's it for now, for those who blog or write pattern reviews: I'll be following along, but probably will not comment a lot (last month I already was a very occasional commenter).

See you next time in a better spirit on my side I hope.

Easily distracted

Yesterday my Patrones issue arrived, and today October BWOF, what a pleasure for the eye! The Patrones issue is already highly praised by others, and I can only agree that this is a great issue. BWOF has some interesting things, and the jacket that is shown on the front is my favorite. But how many jackets can you make? They take a lot of time preparing and constructing, too little time to make all I like.

The pattern sheets from Patrones were immediately used. There is this dress in a retro print, that I cut tonight from a knit from my stash. I made it shorter, so that it will be a top/t-shirt. Hope it's a wearable "muslin". I used a print too, and think that's a pity really. The lines of the pattern call for a plain fabric with topstitching, color blocking or working with stripes. What do you think?

And if you buy or have a subscription to a magazine, are your plans for sewing as easily altered as mine? No idea this weekend that I would be sewing this top, and now I do, inspired by the magazines.

 

 

Dress 31 of Patrones 272

 

To conclude a few detail pictures of the bra and the accompanying item.

I don't think I'm sewing fast, as some of you seem to think, but I plan my projects and try to use the time that I have well. And having no daily travel to/from work helps of course.

The blouse for example that cost me two hours in construction, was traced, pattern adapted, cut with seam allowances, marked before I started sewing. In the post where I mentioned that I needed two hours for construction, I really mean the actual time needed after all the preparation. Most of the time spent on a garment is before the actual sewing phase.

A bra

It's been a long time since I sewed some lingerie. Too many other projects that took priority, but today I felt like making one.

This is the result, a partial band bra. I took pictures while constructing, and will make a tutorial soon. Some time ago I received an email asking for a way to make a front closing to a bra. I did reply that I had never made such a bra (though I'm one of those women closing my bra in front and then turning it to the back). I think that this is the type of bra that might be the solution to make a front closing. I wouldn't know how to do it on a full band bra.

But now (it's Sunday evening here) it's time to prepare for a working week.

Pictures on me

As promised, the pictures of the jacket on me.

 

Excuse the jeans that are no good companion to this. And I will not post a finished jacket on my dressform anymore, I now see that yesterday's pictures don't really show it well. Even now you don't see the lines of the jacket very well.

I love the lines and the neckline, but as you can see, there are a few pleats here and there. Marji asked what the problem with fabric and interfacing was. I used Vlieseline H410 for the jacket, as I had no more of the interfacing I normally use (as in my last jacket). In the town I live this is not available, and I thought this would be enough. Either it was not, or it has to do with the lining method. I made sure the lining would not be too tight, but it just isn't working. When I used the stitch and flip technique for the first time in the class I took, I used a boucle fabric which is more forgiving probably.

The bagging techique looks more suitable for my way of working. Thank you for the information on Cecilia Podolaks book. It's on my wish list now. Does anyone know whether her method is different from the method Sandra Betzina describes?

A picture of the FBA I did on this jacket.

Now I had a photographer (DD), she also made pictures of the Knip blouse. Alanina asked whether I wanted to make the skirt too, and the answer is yes, I plan to make it soon.

 

And a last picture, not of a project of mine, but an inspiration I found. Origami/folded leather bag by Bottega Veneta. With a price of $ 2750 far beyond what I ever could pay for a bag (it's sold out), but I like it. Don't know if I ever do something with this idea, but liked to share.

Vogue 1063 finished

Earlier than I thought I managed to finish the jacket. No pictures on me yet, lack of good light.

My dressform is a smaller than me, so it has more pleats than when I wear it.

I'm not satisfied, I think the fit is not that bad (I'll show you later this weekend) but it has to do with the combination of fabric and interfacing that is not quite right, and it certainly has to do with the "stitch-and-flip" method of lining. I've decided now that this is just no method for me. I miss the ability of really pressing out seams, of changing a bit while sewing.

Setting in the sleeves was not easy, because I had to do that with the lining too. This because one of the seams of the back ended in the sleeve opening. I finished with bias lining fabric.

The notched collar is made in the way that Claire Shaeffer describes in her book "High fashion sewing secrets". This is a great book, that I highly recommend if you want to explore some special techniques.

All in all I don't think I gained time by using this lining method. I promised myself to sew this jacket again, but I will use a more traditional technique in sewing. I think I'll try bagging a lining on my next jacket, a technique that is described in the Sandra Betzina book "Power sewing" (also very helpful) and is described online too, but which I've never tried.

Anyone any other recommendations for lining techniques?