Tuesday, February 4, 2020

Jacket from Burda February 2020




Though the muslin of the Knip Mode jacket was a huge disappointment I was still in a jacket sewing mood. I spent an evening trying to draft that jacket myself but it was too complicated. I do have some pattern drafting skills, but this was out of my league.
Then February Burda came along with this pattern. Not as complicated but still lovely lines. Add to this my confidence in their consistent pattern drafting and I was on my way tracing this pattern.

I compared the traced pattern to my sloper and added a little bit to the hip area and made it up in the fashion fabric immediately. My fabric was 1.50 meter wide, a little wider than the fabric used in the magazine and I managed to cut this from only 1.55 meter of fabric. You can see that some pieces are rather close to each other, I defnitely did not use 5/8 inch seam allowances! The only change I had to do was cutting the center back facing with a seam instead of on the fold. Minor issue in my opinion.


 
This is the fabric I used, bought at Croft Mill Fabric.


Construction was pretty straightforward. As most of you know I construct my jackets with a bit more internal structure than instructions in general tell you. This jacket has a shoulder shield (see picture), sleeveheads and a thin shoulder pad. The last two I forgot to take a photo of.



This "belt" is a nice detail and waist accent. Found this lining that suited the jacket very well. Any plain lining would have been fine of course.




Partly unzipped. The zipper was taken from a skirt I made a couple of years ago. It was still in mint condition while the fabric of the skirt was turning from black to grey. It even has a bit more of a story, because I bought this Riri zipper when I was in New York and met Nancy K again. Quite a few years ago now, wish I could do it again. Wish I could find this more special zippers locally too but never found a source for them.



Now I'm working on an easy project, here's a sneak peek. A dress from Burda January 2019. I was just too tired to put the sleeves in tonight.



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27 comments:

  1. Your work is amazing, such craft(wo)manship! I LOVE your jacket and your dress looks promising. What is so special about the zipper (apart from the memories)?

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    1. Thanks for the compliments Jos. The zipper is high quality metal but what really makes a difference is this zipper tape that has a lovely shine on it (satin weave) and the special pull, which I could choose from several options if I remember it right.
      There were a lot of different colours to choose from, custom made to length in the shop.

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  2. Your jacket is fabulous! It looks so high end, as does the dress looking forward to seeing that too. Angela

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    1. Thank you, hope to show both when wearing them in a next post.

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  3. Beautiful jacket! I love a zipper with a story!

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  4. Thank you. Zippers (and fabrics) with a story too.

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    1. That should read "I love zippers (and fabrics) with a story too."

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  5. Excellent! Looks fabulous. And the new top looks lovely too.

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  6. Sigrid, that fabric made into that jacket is fabulous! Please put a full picture of the jacket on your next post, or better yet, model for me!

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    1. Thank you. I'll post a post of me wearing the jacket soon. I've worn it already to a business meeting :). That wasn't an opportunity to make photos though.

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  7. I can't find the fabric on the Croft Mill website, any clues?

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    1. It's called Molly: https://www.croftmill.co.uk/molly

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  8. I like to reuse zippers too and Aldo buttons and labels. Your jacket is tiptop as everything you sew. Nice the inner pad on the shoulder.

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    1. Yes, especially as the nice ones are really expensive. I never add labels, though I'm still thinking of ordering some.

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  9. Replies
    1. Thank you, I'm quite happy with it myself too.

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  10. Love this jacket! What is the fabric content?

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    1. It's polyester. Something I didn't pay attention to when buying, as in general I don't like 100% polyester for several reasons. It turned out perfectly ok to work with and wearing is good too.

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  11. Your extra attention to the inner construction shows. This jacket is beautifully tailored. I love the contrasting lining. And that dress! I can't wait to see that fully done. Wow! Beautiful work as always, Sigrid!

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    1. Thank you, I know you would pay similar attention too!

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  12. What you can't see really makes a difference in tailoring a jacket. This is wonderful. I find it weird that you can't find a source for Riri when they are made in Europe! Pacific Trimmings has enlarged since we were there. An entire room devoted to Riri.

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  13. An entire room devoted to Riri :). Wouldn't exist here for any brand of zippers! Have checked again but I can not find a shop selling Riri zippers here. Very strange.
    Wish we could meet again.

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  14. Beautiful work on your jacket! I want to tackle a jacket with a zipper like that. What an inspiratio--thanks so much for sharing!

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Comments are very much appreciated! I read all of them, try to answer the questions but don't always have time to react to comments.