Thursday, May 24, 2018

Dress Burda June 2018, construction picture

Once in a while a pattern shows up in a magazine that I want to make immediately. This Burda dress from the June issue is one of those.
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It’s mainly the linedrawing that’s interesting, as the fabric they used for the magazine issue is not really showing the design lines. There would have been better accent options for the piping they uses.
If you’re like me and in general don’t look at the Burda instructions but do it by experience or your way anyhow, DON’T go on autopilot with this one.
Sleeveless dress: I close shoulder seams at the last possible moment. Not here, as you have to sew the bias band in between the center and side parts. The band has no seam (and I wouldn’t add one, too many layers of fabric), so the shoulder has to be sewn earlier than I’m used to.
Darts: I was inclined to sew all darts as first step and realised really just in time that the front dart is taking up the edge of the band. Front and back band! I was stupified why the angle of the band was not matching the side seam, until I studied the line drawing again and realised the edge was taken up by the dart too. Which as you can see in the photo has a very special effect on the side seam.

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It’s a pattern that’s drafted very carefully and very beautifully. Would be awesome in a striped fabric, using stripes in different directions too. This time my advise is to use the instructions or at least think about how to construct this before starting sewing.
In my photo you can see a bit of gathering in the back. The band is cut on the bias and has to be attached stretching it to match the back pattern. It will probably help with the fit, getting it closer to the body.
Even though I love this pattern, it might be put on hold for a few weeks. My agenda is very full before we go on holiday and I don’t want to rush this.

Update July 2018: Though the fit was good, I didn't like the light blue colour as a dress on me. I dyed it but I didn't like the result. It's been tossed in the bin. Wrong choice of fabric. Maybe one day in another fabric?


  1. Yes this looked like a really interesting design although it was hard to figure out exactly what was going on so it is fantastic that you have made up the bodice and shown the side view. It's looking beautiful and you are right, not a pattern to be rushed!

  2. This is Burda at its finest. Such a beautiful pattern. I can’t wait to see it completed.

  3. This is going to be one beautiful dress. Very interesting construction.

  4. Looks great so far. I'm really interested to see the final dress.

  5. Thank you for posting it-i couldn't figure out what was going On there-not from drawing, not from photo-from the magazine.

  6. Really intriguing design and I look forward to your construction. Have a great holiday!

  7. What an interesting pattern. Looking forward to seeing it completed.

  8. This looks like it was designed for you, Sigrid. Can't wait to see the finished project. Have a terrific holiday. We are away for a four day weekend with friends then leave a week later for our holiday. How do I fit in sewing!!!

  9. The fabric and colour is gorgeous. Looks like you already! Bon voyage.

  10. This really is Burda at it's finest. It has wonderful unique details. Certainly better not to rush it. While i don't generally use Burda's instructions, I still read them to make sure there are not surprises.

  11. This is a really timely post for me! I have struggled with this bodice this week, mainly because I omitted to read the instructions... I sewed up a toile of the bodice on Wednesday, but couldn't for the life of me stretch the bias armscye band enough to get it into the dart at both ends. Then I read the instructions again and saw the recommended fabric was stretch woven... is that what you have used here? I have shelved the project too for now...
    (Love reading your blog BTW!)

    1. I'm using a cotton without stretch and the band needed quite a bit of fiddling to match the back pattern piece. If it's not working with your fabric you could lengthen the band a bit without any problem is my guess.
      And thank you for reading my blog!

  12. Gorgeous lines on this dress and very interesting to read.

  13. Must be right up your ally being so intricate! I am tempted to buy the June Burda just for this dress. Love reading your blog and am always amazed what you are doing.

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