Knip mode dress–October 2017

There is a reason my jacket is not finished yet. I’m too easily distracted sometimes. I’ve been sewing dresses. One of them is a dress from the Knip Mode October issue.

A relatively easy dress to sew. The back darts of the line drawing are not in the pattern. My full review is on Patternreview.

In different light the colour looks almost purple on my screen. It’s a warm, dark red in real life.
In these pictures you see that the pleats of the skirt are done first, then the bodice is attached and the pleats of the bodice partially cover the waist seam.

Shoulder shield

In the comments on my previous post I was asked to write more about the shoulder shield. There is not so much to tell about it apart from the fact it gives more structure and a little firmness to that area of a jacket.

Browsing through my blog photos I found quite a few photos of shoulder shield I installed in jackets. The floating one is a technique I’ve use only in the past two years, I think I found the instructions for this in Alison Smith’s Craftsy class.

A good introduction to the inner construction of jacket can be found in aThreads magazine article on an Armani jacket. A good reference book, I’ve recommended it before is Tailoring, two editions have different covers:

or

I have quite a collection of sewing books and books on tailoring are a special category in those. From all books I’ve learned something, but this book is quite often the first one to take from the book shelves when I want to check upon something on the subject of interfacing.

I don’t remember when I first started to use a shoulder shield, it’s been in jackets that I made 10 years ago.

Below photos of the inner construction of jackets I’ve made in the past years. Different ways of construction, but always a shoulder shield.