Skip to main content

Sleeves

Two commenters have asked for a post on the fitting of this jacket. I’ll come back on that soon. For now it’s about construction.

I like to break up a complicated project as the jacket in manageable pieces. Sunday I didn’t have a lot of time and I added only the horizontal piping in the sleeve. Tonight was planned for inserting the sleeve zippers Shams did a great post on how she did it and I read it thoroughly before starting. It was quite similar to what I had in mind, but it doesn’t hurt to get it confirmed. I’m not sure yet whether I’ll add the gusset, sewing is done for tonight, I’ll decide tomorrow.

Originally I planned to to a vertical piping as well till the start of the zipper but have decided against it. I had pinned it and then thought it was giving too much bulk. I did not want to take the risk and omitted it. Don’t think it will matter in the end result.

The zippers I bought in NY too , they are Riri zippers. There is no choice in zippers where I live, it was such a jaw dropping experience when I first saw a shop (Pacific trim) full of all kind of zippers on my first visit a few years back. They are made to measure too, while you wait or shop around a little. Great service. I bought one very long zipper and they made it into one long and 4 short zippers.

Here’s the series of photos of my construction.

Measuring the length of the zipper, like Shams I decided I wanted the pull of the zipper not below the hemline of the sleeve.

Then I measured the width I wanted exposed and chalk-marked these measurments on a piece of silk organza.

Pinned the silk organza to the right side of the fabric at the seam line

Stitched NOT on the seamline and to the corner with very small stitches. The small stitches prevent any gaping/fraying of fabric in the corner. Not really an issue in this felted wool, but also the organza must not ravel.

Clipped and turned, than basted.

Under and upper sleeve stitched together.

And finally the zipper sewn into the ‘window’

Comments

  1. Your sewing is so meticulous. Something to aspire to . It's looking gorgeous.
    I love Pacific Trimming. Glad you're using your zippers.

    ReplyDelete
  2. I agree with Nancy. Your work is perfect and you are very generous in sharing technique.

    ReplyDelete
  3. This jacket is going to be gorgeous. Beautiful work.

    ReplyDelete
  4. That is coming along nicely. Your work is beautiful.

    ReplyDelete

Post a Comment

It's always nice to have feedback on what I'm posting about. All comments, also positive criticism, are always highly appreciated.
Leuk als je een berichtje schrijft, altijd leuk om te lezen, ook opbouwende kritiek!

Popular posts from this blog

How to sew a sleeveless top with facings

How lovely to read the nice comments on my jacket. Grumpy without coffee commented that the original artist for the cartoon (which apparently was for books) was Sarah Andersen. Thank you for mentioning it. Beckster asked about the way I closed the center back seam of the lining. I did it by machine. She also said “Although I have not tried it, I have been told that the lining can be made by using the pattern minus the seam allowance and facings.” Well, certainly not without seam allowances, it should be without hem and without the facings. Important is that you have about 5 cm hem in the jacket for this to work. And I would always make a center back pleat. It gives you space to move without the lining pulling on the fabric. Next time I make a jacket I will try to make photos of the process of bagging the lining (Patsijean said she would have liked to see them and probably more would be interested). Might take a while though, see the end of this post.-----------------------------I mad…

Dress Burda June 2018, construction picture

Once in a while a pattern shows up in a magazine that I want to make immediately. This Burda dress from the June issue is one of those.It’s mainly the linedrawing that’s interesting, as the fabric they used for the magazine issue is not really showing the design lines. There would have been better accent options for the piping they uses. If you’re like me and in general don’t look at the Burda instructions but do it by experience or your way anyhow, DON’T go on autopilot with this one. Sleeveless dress: I close shoulder seams at the last possible moment. Not here, as you have to sew the bias band in between the center and side parts. The band has no seam (and I wouldn’t add one, too many layers of fabric), so the shoulder has to be sewn earlier than I’m used to.Darts: I was inclined to sew all darts as first step and realised really just in time that the front dart is taking up the edge of the band. Front and back band! I was stupified why the angle of the band was not matching the si…

Hilarious description

This week I bought the January Burda issue and browsing through it this top, and especially its description had my attention. Written by someone who has no understanding of modern, functional fabrics and never goes to the gym. Don’t know whether it’s the same in the English issue of the magazine, but in Dutch it says “Sport shirts often have the disadvantage to be close fitted.  This restricts your movement. Our suggestion: make this shirt with a full draped back.“I didn’t care to check their description of sports shirts they published before, but thought this one was hilarious.Off to trace a pattern from this magazine (not this one).