Wednesday, August 14, 2013

Quick muslin


I’m not often impressed by Vogue patterns enough to justify the cost of buying them, even when they are on sale. But this time the Donna Karan dress that featured the e-mail announcing their new fall patterns immediately caught my attention. A beautiful dress in my opinion. Last weekend the patterns were on sale again. I ordered it on Friday and it arrived yesterday. Quite impressive as it had to cross an ocean. Once here I had to start working on it. Yesterday evening I traced the pattern and cut it from the one knit in my stash that had enough yardage, but perhaps not enough “body”.

The pattern piece with all the pleats in it has a lot of lines. Very good was that the different sizes were distributed over 2 sheets. Sizes 14 and 18 on one sheet, the other 3 sizes on another sheet. It made it clear which lines belonged to the sizes. If all 5 would have been on one sheet it would have been a mess.

As all of the pieces are cut from one layer of fabric, it is helpful to cut two sleeve pattern pieces. It makes it easier to place the pattern pieces correctly (only one pattern piece is on the tissue).

Tonight I sewed the body part, mainly to check the fit. The pattern pieces are as fascinating as the dress looks and it’s a bit difficult to define where to widen for the hip area (a must for me). Also there are no finished measurements on the pattern pieces, so impossible to know whether Vogue has designed this with wearing ease and how much. This would have been helpful information. I started with a size 14 and widenened the skirt after I had determined where about I had to change.

Sorry for the not so flattering photos, taken from a too short distance. I did not finish the collar part. Size 14 is a bit wide in the back (as usual) but I think it’s ok in the front. The neckline could be raised a bit, also on the Vogue photo it’s a bit low. It’s not hemmed yet, the length will be fine when it is. The opening in the front is not ok though, it’s too open when walking to  my liking and planned use of this dress. The pattern needs a bit of tweaking to fit me, which is no surprise. The result isn’t too bad though. Will this work?

What do you think?

And what do you think of the different left/right shoulder angle, which is on the back. I did not realise it until I saw the photo on me and noticed the different angle immediately. I’m inclined to either make it in the same angle or make the left shoulder straight like a normal shoulder seam instead of an angle.




Answers to questions in the comments: Marie,  unfortunately   I don’t know an online bra course. I’m glad to hear the tutorials are helpful.

Alison asked for a source for the interfacing. I buy it at Kantje boord and have bought it online from Wien2002. It’s an Austrian site in German only. The main think it’s thin and it doesn’t stretch. It’s called tule or non-stretch chameuse.


Aline said...

That already looks very promising! I also feel in love with this pattern immediately, I am really curious to your final version!
About the shoulder angle, I really like the angle on the right one, I can imagine a "normal" shoulder seam on the left would work fine, but I am not sure whether the same angle that's on the right fits in with the pattern. The dress isn't symmetrical in any place, so I don't expect it to be on the shoulders either. Adding sleeves might make all the difference by the way. Good luck! Looks very promising indeed.

Dilliander said...

Oh, so glad you are making this... it has peeked my interest too and your muslin is looking very promising! A couple of years back I made B5559, and it was similarly hard to know how/where to alter. You have a great start with this pattern and the muslin should help. I think the shoulder would look good either way, perhaps just personal choice. This will be such a fabulous dress!

Karien said...

Leuke jurk. Doet me denken aan de Eva dress, met al die schuine lijnen. Lijkt me erg leuk om zoiets zelf te tekenen.

Vicki said...

Hard to say. Parts I like but I don't think the top has enough to balance the lower half. Are you planning to put in sleeves? I think that will balance it out better and be more flattering to you. The back looks good.

AllisonC said...

I'm excited to see how this looks when completed so I definitely vote for going ahead and making it. I love the back view especially, I think the front will look better when you see it with sleeves and a collar. That might change the way you feel about the back shoulder too. How do you plan on fixing the front skirt, just reshaping it to less of an angled split?

Joza Jagodic said...

So inspiration is back!!!
What a challenging dress!!
The design of the dress emphasizes also the hipes to my opinion, of course when you set in the sleeves that will change the balance. (Perhaps I get a totally wrong impression because of the angel in which the photo's are made...)But I agree with Vicky that the top has not (yet) enough to balance the lower half....but that can change completly if you put in some small shouldercapes. Hope you don't mind for being so bold..
As for the shoulders , I think they look great I wouldn't change them if I were you..

Linda said...

I look forward to seeing this complete. I really like this pattern, yet I find I want to see what others are doing with it before jumping in. It just may not be right for me.

Tia Dia said...

Oooo! I'm so glad to see you are sewing this one up! I love Donna Karan's designs - so fun and interesting and "outside the box" to sew. I see what you mean about the shoulder angle - it does draw attention to itself - and I think your idea of making an adjustment may work. Regarding the front skirt opening: I notice that your dress is pulling higher across your left hip in the back, which would affect the drape of the front. I'm just guessing (no expert here!) that one of two things may help: make one of the tucks deeper at the back right to even out the drape, or add some width across the L hip area so the skirt hangs straight. Or both? Sorry to be so bold, but I have the same issue in skirt fitting, and I've been thinking about fixes. You've inspired me to try this!!

Nancy K said...

I think that you need more room in the hip and the shoulders look a bit too long. I think that I'd balance the shoulders with some shoulder pads as someone else suggested. Is the hem included? If not it's a bit too long as well. The cross back looks correct, the cross front perhaps a bit too wide. It's an interesting dress that is worth playing with to get it right.

vivienz said...

Gorgeous dress - I'd make the two shoulder yokes the same, myself. I think that with all the diagonal lines down the back, different shoulders is just a little too much. Looking forward to your work on this one - I thought it was the only worthwhile pattern in the latest round of Vogues.

Gail said...

I'm excited that someone else is making this dress. My pattern arrived in the mail today.

patternpandemonium said...

I'm so glad you're making this, its looking good. I'm looking forward to reading about how it goes from here on.

Art By Clare said...

I think the dress will look pretty special when finished.
I think when the shoulder pads and sleeves are in, the balance will be good. I love the seaming on the back, I'm not quite so sure about the shoulder seaming.

I look forward to seeing the progress.

Art By Clare said...

I think the dress will look pretty special when finished.
I think when the shoulder pads and sleeves are in, the balance will be good. I love the seaming on the back, I'm not quite so sure about the shoulder seaming.

I look forward to seeing the progress.

Zoë said...

The pattern looks very promising! It looks like it is coming along well and with the alterations you mentioned, I'm sure it will turn out great. As for the shoulder issue, perhaps try it with the sleeves first and see if that fixes any of the issues.

Cornelia said...

I'm not sure how the changes you'll make will change the front view, but it looks really good from the back at present. I would agree with Vicki that the balance on the front misses the mark, but the back is so good perhaps you could take a chance?