Skip to main content

Vogue 1257 – muslin

I had no idea what I would sew next after finishing my trousers. Tonight I traced the Vogue 1257 dress that I ordered recently. I liked the pattern when it was published ordered it, and decided to make a muslin. There is one not so positive review on PR and I was cautioned to be aware of the length of the bodice, the reviewer warns for a short bodice (high waist) while the picture and line drawing don’t show that.

Measuring the back it really appeared short. I added 5 cm (2 inches) to the bodice. It was a bit of a puzzle how to do that on the front. This is what I did, it will be easier to understand if you have the pattern yourself.

I drew a line about the pleats and made an angle at the center front line to the side seam. Then I shifted the part with the pleats down and for the left part I made sure that the waistline remained the same. With the blue line I made a correction on the space needed. The new center front line made me wonder whether there would be enough space at bust height. And the only way to find out was making a muslin.


The muslin is made of a remnant of an earlier project. I had just enough for the bodicee part and had to cut the sleeves a bit shorter.


You can see I need the 5 cm extra in the waist. The sleeves are very snug, the front is kept in place with a pin, but I didn’t use the elastic as described in the instructions. That will make a difference, but it certainly is rather low now. Think I could use a bit of extra space in the bust area, not sure however how to do that.


I’m on the fence of making this dress or not. If I do it will certainly be from a plain knit like the pattern envelope. You can see that the print on the sleeves has a different direction than the front, this is because the sleeve is part of the front bodice pattern. Now I made the muslin I also know how I would have to change the pattern to make separate sleeves, which I consider doing. They have to be a bit wider (and I don’t have full biceps!), which is an easier change when the sleeves are separate.

To be continued…. or not.


  1. I was disappointed when I read the review on PR as I was thinking of buying this pattern. It is good to see some of the issues highlighted in that review confirmed by your muslin.

    If you have enough fabric, I would muslin adding the skirt portion as it looks as thought the waist length is not even all the way around.

  2. Always disappointing to read a bad review for an attractive pattern. I will be watching to see what you decide! Good luck.

  3. I have noticed that vogue patterns for knit dresses are cut short in the back bodice whenever there is weight in the skirt front. It is like they compensate for the front to be pulled down. You could do a mock FBA by adding half a centimetre of width to the front bodice sides.
    I agree with katherine h about adding a muslin skirt, even if it is in a plain colour to see how it hangs.
    Having said all that I like it so far!

  4. It looks promising - but I can 't understand your apprehension!

  5. Sorry, meant to write that I CAN understand your apprehension!!!!

  6. This looks promising .... the model is great, so relying on your great sewing skills, this is a slight delay for a beautiful dress to come ...

  7. I agree with Katherine and Valerie. I quite liked the top half. Good luck with it.

  8. This is a very attractve model indeed. I hope that you will find solutions to all the problems that have been rising till now.
    Apparently you didn't consider making it with a high waist. Perhaps you could give it a try that way too

  9. Intriguing. I bought this pattern but am uncertain how the "knot" on the front skirt will look. It could end up being too much fabric. I like the way the bodice looks on you, though.

  10. Not just to be perverse, but I might buy this pattern because it is short in the waist. I am sick of Empire looks but need something that falls above my (too ample by far) waist. Perhaps it' meant for a bulging pear like me? Not nice to fool everyone else, though, and not note how far above the waistline the dress actually falls.

  11. Thanks for sharing your observations and changes. I'm planning to make this dress.


Post a Comment

Comments are very much appreciated! I read all of them, try to answer the questions but don't always have time to react to comments.

Popular posts from this blog

How to sew a sleeveless top with facings

Edit to make this post only about the technique, not my ramblings on other subjects.
This is about making a sleeveless cowl neck top with a facing for both the front and the back. In this way no special finishing of the arm holes is needed. This method is based on Carolyn’s way of making a top with all seams enclosed.

Let me show you how to do this. It’s a good reminder for myself too, I forget when I haven’t done it in a while.
First you need a pattern that has a facing for the back that extends below the armhole. Also the front facing has to extend below the armhole. Easy enough to adapt a pattern, just trace a line about 5 cm (2 inches) below the armhole. The photo below shows you the facing of the back

Step 1: stabilize the back neckline of the back pattern piece

Step 2: with right sides together, sew the neckline of the back and the back facing, press but do not topstitch

Step 3: With right sides together, sew the armhole of the front to the armhole of the front facing.

Step 4:…

Dress Burda June 2018, construction picture

Once in a while a pattern shows up in a magazine that I want to make immediately. This Burda dress from the June issue is one of those.

It’s mainly the linedrawing that’s interesting, as the fabric they used for the magazine issue is not really showing the design lines. There would have been better accent options for the piping they uses.
If you’re like me and in general don’t look at the Burda instructions but do it by experience or your way anyhow, DON’T go on autopilot with this one.
Sleeveless dress: I close shoulder seams at the last possible moment. Not here, as you have to sew the bias band in between the center and side parts. The band has no seam (and I wouldn’t add one, too many layers of fabric), so the shoulder has to be sewn earlier than I’m used to.
Darts: I was inclined to sew all darts as first step and realised really just in time that the front dart is taking up the edge of the band. Front and back band! I was stupified why the angle of the band was not matching th…

Pants fitting, part 1

First, I'd like to thank all who commented on the fitting issues for my pants. I did look at Debbie's site and somehow thought it would not be the "one" answer to my problem, as I've become convinced that there is no one-step solution for me. But I think I have found part of the solution there. Tonight I spent adapting my pattern and making a muslin.

My starting point, after reading all the information was the Threads issue of January 2006, an article by Joyce Murphy Adjusting pants from waist to seat. In this article she describes "body space" as an important point in fitting pants. And it does make sense to me, as women have very different shapes. One needs more space in the front, and others (like me) more in the back.
The picture above shows the body space in my pattern, which is 15 cm. I tried to measure my own bodyspace by taking two rulers, and it is 19 cm, which means that 2 cm more is needed (half of the extra width in the pattern). The article d…