Saturday, August 27, 2011

Vogue 1257 – muslin

I had no idea what I would sew next after finishing my trousers. Tonight I traced the Vogue 1257 dress that I ordered recently. I liked the pattern when it was published ordered it, and decided to make a muslin. There is one not so positive review on PR and I was cautioned to be aware of the length of the bodice, the reviewer warns for a short bodice (high waist) while the picture and line drawing don’t show that.

Measuring the back it really appeared short. I added 5 cm (2 inches) to the bodice. It was a bit of a puzzle how to do that on the front. This is what I did, it will be easier to understand if you have the pattern yourself.

I drew a line about the pleats and made an angle at the center front line to the side seam. Then I shifted the part with the pleats down and for the left part I made sure that the waistline remained the same. With the blue line I made a correction on the space needed. The new center front line made me wonder whether there would be enough space at bust height. And the only way to find out was making a muslin.


The muslin is made of a remnant of an earlier project. I had just enough for the bodicee part and had to cut the sleeves a bit shorter.


You can see I need the 5 cm extra in the waist. The sleeves are very snug, the front is kept in place with a pin, but I didn’t use the elastic as described in the instructions. That will make a difference, but it certainly is rather low now. Think I could use a bit of extra space in the bust area, not sure however how to do that.


I’m on the fence of making this dress or not. If I do it will certainly be from a plain knit like the pattern envelope. You can see that the print on the sleeves has a different direction than the front, this is because the sleeve is part of the front bodice pattern. Now I made the muslin I also know how I would have to change the pattern to make separate sleeves, which I consider doing. They have to be a bit wider (and I don’t have full biceps!), which is an easier change when the sleeves are separate.

To be continued…. or not.


  1. I was disappointed when I read the review on PR as I was thinking of buying this pattern. It is good to see some of the issues highlighted in that review confirmed by your muslin.

    If you have enough fabric, I would muslin adding the skirt portion as it looks as thought the waist length is not even all the way around.

  2. Always disappointing to read a bad review for an attractive pattern. I will be watching to see what you decide! Good luck.

  3. I have noticed that vogue patterns for knit dresses are cut short in the back bodice whenever there is weight in the skirt front. It is like they compensate for the front to be pulled down. You could do a mock FBA by adding half a centimetre of width to the front bodice sides.
    I agree with katherine h about adding a muslin skirt, even if it is in a plain colour to see how it hangs.
    Having said all that I like it so far!

  4. It looks promising - but I can 't understand your apprehension!

  5. Sorry, meant to write that I CAN understand your apprehension!!!!

  6. This looks promising .... the model is great, so relying on your great sewing skills, this is a slight delay for a beautiful dress to come ...

  7. I agree with Katherine and Valerie. I quite liked the top half. Good luck with it.

  8. This is a very attractve model indeed. I hope that you will find solutions to all the problems that have been rising till now.
    Apparently you didn't consider making it with a high waist. Perhaps you could give it a try that way too

  9. Intriguing. I bought this pattern but am uncertain how the "knot" on the front skirt will look. It could end up being too much fabric. I like the way the bodice looks on you, though.

  10. Not just to be perverse, but I might buy this pattern because it is short in the waist. I am sick of Empire looks but need something that falls above my (too ample by far) waist. Perhaps it' meant for a bulging pear like me? Not nice to fool everyone else, though, and not note how far above the waistline the dress actually falls.

  11. Thanks for sharing your observations and changes. I'm planning to make this dress.