Skip to main content

Pocket opening - using silk organza

With the warm weather we are having at the moment (25 degrees Celsius, very hot for The Netherlands in April) I’m longing to sew linen trousers and not doing much hand-sewing. I’m also enjoying the sun, having a lunch or a cup of coffee in the garden is so nice!

For the enforcement of the pocket opening I used a technique I found in the book “Couture sewing techniques” by Linda Maynard that I bought recently. It’s a wonderful book with a lot of special techniques that I’d like to try. Like Ann said in her review of the book (must be the same book, though my version has a different cover) it’s not about haute couture techniques. The techniques are more high end RTW and as I’m striving more towards high end rtw for my own sewing than real couture techniques, this is a book I like and will use more in the future.

These are not the complete instructions of the book to sew the pocket, but I like to show the way the opening is made.

For the pocket opening a strip of silk organza is used, cut on the straight of grain, 3 cm wide. Fold the strip in the length and iron it. Place it on the seamline of the pocket (wrong side of fabric), clip where necessary to make the curve. Stitch in the crease.

Sew the pocket facing with right sides together, the stitchline just beside the previous stitching.

From this point I made the pocket opening like I always do: trim the seams, clip where necessary, turn and topstitch.

This is the result on the inside of the pocket.

And here you can see the trimmed seam allowance and the silk organza. Nothing to be seen after completing the trousers.


  1. It looks like an interesting book. I have her De-Mystifying Fit book and really like it.

  2. Huh - what a good tip. THanks for passing it along.

  3. Thank you for sharing this technique!

  4. I like the idea of using silk organza for reinforcement. It's invisible in the finished garment.

    And I like the book, too. There are several techniques in it that I would like to try soon, namely the banded V-neck, the balanced darts, and the wide charmeuse hem band.

  5. Clever idea. I think I must buy this book while the Australian $ is so high.

  6. Very interesting - seems like the book is quite popular.

  7. This pocket technique looks nice. Your book sounds like a great resource. I think I have another book by Maynard, I need to take a look

  8. What a lovely technique! Thanks for illustrating it so well.

  9. Oh my God! Is 25ºC hot? Here in Rio, I use to fix my air conditioned in 24/25... In summer, outside use to be hotter, much much hotter.

  10. I took this book out of the library and just used the knit neckline technique. It's fantastic. The best looking knit binding I've made. Easiest to do well too. We do have a different cover here. I was wavering about buying it because I thought the organization of the book a bit weird, but the techniques are well photographed and explained.


Post a Comment

Comments are very much appreciated! I read all of them, try to answer the questions but don't always have time to react to comments.

Popular posts from this blog

How to sew a sleeveless top with facings

How lovely to read the nice comments on my jacket. Grumpy without coffee commented that the original artist for the cartoon (which apparently was for books) was Sarah Andersen. Thank you for mentioning it. Beckster asked about the way I closed the center back seam of the lining. I did it by machine. She also said “Although I have not tried it, I have been told that the lining can be made by using the pattern minus the seam allowance and facings.” Well, certainly not without seam allowances, it should be without hem and without the facings. Important is that you have about 5 cm hem in the jacket for this to work. And I would always make a center back pleat. It gives you space to move without the lining pulling on the fabric. Next time I make a jacket I will try to make photos of the process of bagging the lining (Patsijean said she would have liked to see them and probably more would be interested). Might take a while though, see the end of this post.-----------------------------I mad…

Dress Burda June 2018, construction picture

Once in a while a pattern shows up in a magazine that I want to make immediately. This Burda dress from the June issue is one of those.

It’s mainly the linedrawing that’s interesting, as the fabric they used for the magazine issue is not really showing the design lines. There would have been better accent options for the piping they uses.
If you’re like me and in general don’t look at the Burda instructions but do it by experience or your way anyhow, DON’T go on autopilot with this one.
Sleeveless dress: I close shoulder seams at the last possible moment. Not here, as you have to sew the bias band in between the center and side parts. The band has no seam (and I wouldn’t add one, too many layers of fabric), so the shoulder has to be sewn earlier than I’m used to.
Darts: I was inclined to sew all darts as first step and realised really just in time that the front dart is taking up the edge of the band. Front and back band! I was stupified why the angle of the band was not matching th…

Hilarious description

This week I bought the January Burda issue and browsing through it this top, and especially its description had my attention. Written by someone who has no understanding of modern, functional fabrics and never goes to the gym. Don’t know whether it’s the same in the English issue of the magazine, but in Dutch it says “Sport shirts often have the disadvantage to be close fitted.  This restricts your movement. Our suggestion: make this shirt with a full draped back.“I didn’t care to check their description of sports shirts they published before, but thought this one was hilarious.Off to trace a pattern from this magazine (not this one).