Skip to main content

Vogue instructions

I’m trying a new pattern, Vogue 1054. It’s a blouse pattern by Chado Ralph Rucci. I’m taking quite a few shortcuts in construction. My version is far less elaborate than the pattern instructions, that call for a lot of hand topstitching, finishing of all seams with bias band (hong kong finish) and a variation of bound buttonholes (behind a hidden placket!).

I can barely get my attention to sewing, and my handstitches are no good. Not enough practise, I admit.. Therefor I opted for serging the seams and topstitching by machine and machine buttonholes. My fabric is not a crepe either, but linen/rayon. I hope my version will be a comfortable spring/summer blouse (whenever spring will arrive, even my helleborus doesn’t have flowers yet, normally that’s early January).

I’m making good progress, and only the sleeves still have to be done. But I was surprised at the drafting of the button plackets and facing. There are seams at the edges, where they are not necessary in my opinion, and only make for more bulk. I cut the fabric with my mind elsewhere, so I only found out during construction. I fiddled for an hour with the pieces for the hidden placket before I knew how construction was meant. When I then realised I could have cut it different/better, it was too late, no fabric left to cut new pieces. The horizontal lines in the front make it difficult to cut it all in one piece for the right side, but I think it would have been better to have a fold there, and no seam.

In answer to a few comments on my previous post about the notched collar: this really was a sample, there will be no finished jacket from this fabric. Though it looks nice in the pictures, it’s quite an itchy linen that I bought for making muslins. The pattern was no. 112 from January 2007.


  1. Looks like a very nice shirt. Look forward to seeing it all done up.

  2. From what I've seen about Chado, Vogue is using his techniques in the instructions instead of their regular generic instructions'

  3. Great shirt, you'll be ready for Spring if it ever arrives :-).
    People bitch about Burda instructions because they're so pithy. In my experience, Vogue instructions are wordier but they're far from accurate. Basically, unless you're using a Sandra Betzina pattern (which is drafted to her sloper, and with her instructions) you're getting weird stuff, and it's best to plan ahead and make sure you're using your favorite method for individual components.
    I've got to say the bound buttonholes under a placket must get a prize for useless complication :-).

  4. I love this pattern, have it, and keep pushing it to the bottom of the stash-to-do pile. It looked too complicated for my sewing skills. Perhaps I will push it up the line with your reasonable-sounding shortcuts. I look forward to more on your progress!

  5. This comment has been removed by a blog administrator.


Post a Comment

Comments are very much appreciated! I read all of them, try to answer the questions but don't always have time to react to comments.

Popular posts from this blog

How to sew a sleeveless top with facings

How lovely to read the nice comments on my jacket. Grumpy without coffee commented that the original artist for the cartoon (which apparently was for books) was Sarah Andersen. Thank you for mentioning it. Beckster asked about the way I closed the center back seam of the lining. I did it by machine. She also said “Although I have not tried it, I have been told that the lining can be made by using the pattern minus the seam allowance and facings.” Well, certainly not without seam allowances, it should be without hem and without the facings. Important is that you have about 5 cm hem in the jacket for this to work. And I would always make a center back pleat. It gives you space to move without the lining pulling on the fabric. Next time I make a jacket I will try to make photos of the process of bagging the lining (Patsijean said she would have liked to see them and probably more would be interested). Might take a while though, see the end of this post.-----------------------------I mad…

Dress Burda June 2018, construction picture

Once in a while a pattern shows up in a magazine that I want to make immediately. This Burda dress from the June issue is one of those.

It’s mainly the linedrawing that’s interesting, as the fabric they used for the magazine issue is not really showing the design lines. There would have been better accent options for the piping they uses.
If you’re like me and in general don’t look at the Burda instructions but do it by experience or your way anyhow, DON’T go on autopilot with this one.
Sleeveless dress: I close shoulder seams at the last possible moment. Not here, as you have to sew the bias band in between the center and side parts. The band has no seam (and I wouldn’t add one, too many layers of fabric), so the shoulder has to be sewn earlier than I’m used to.
Darts: I was inclined to sew all darts as first step and realised really just in time that the front dart is taking up the edge of the band. Front and back band! I was stupified why the angle of the band was not matching th…

Hilarious description

This week I bought the January Burda issue and browsing through it this top, and especially its description had my attention. Written by someone who has no understanding of modern, functional fabrics and never goes to the gym. Don’t know whether it’s the same in the English issue of the magazine, but in Dutch it says “Sport shirts often have the disadvantage to be close fitted.  This restricts your movement. Our suggestion: make this shirt with a full draped back.“I didn’t care to check their description of sports shirts they published before, but thought this one was hilarious.Off to trace a pattern from this magazine (not this one).