Saturday, May 10, 2014

Double drape tee

At the moment I’m working on pattern drafting, as you may have read in earlier posts. Following this interest I recently discovered the blog Well Suited by Studio Faro. I have mentioned this too.

I’m quite intrigued by some of the pattern drafts Anita is publishing. Some are quite complicated but the Double Drape Tee did not look that difficult, so good for a first try. I did use a Jalie t-shirt pattern as a base, not having done my own knit block yet. I could have drawn a basic sloper with no ease I presume, but well, this was around. Not a good idea, see the end of the story.

This is how I worked it out.

The front pattern of the shirt was cut as a complete pattern, as the top is not symmetric, no cutting on the fold possible. Especially at the top you can see a lot of drafting lines. I realized that my initial lines were too high and I had to use the lowest point of the neckline. The Jalie pattern is for a t-shirt pattern with a high neckline, so making a line higher than the lowest point of it would not feel comfortable (I don’t like the feeling of a turtle neck for example) and even more important, not what is intended with this style.

The next step was tracing the top part because of the overlapping parts.

I’ve cut the lines to the edge, leaving only a little point closed (I removed the seam allowancse).

Then I slashed the main body part and traced this to be the front pattern.

The front pattern completed. Looks a lot like the draft from Studio Faro, doesn’t it?

I pinned in on my dressform. Now I had to think on how to finish the neckline. I decided on a one fold binding.

The result on me doesn’t look as good, but the idea of the pattern works. The Jalie pattern is too small in the sleeves and looks like the shoulder on my left side is not good either. Also a little tweaking is in order on the diagonal line, but that would have been an easy fix.

For me this is mainly a “proof of concept”, working on pattern drafting techniques. It would have been nice if it had been a wearable garment but I’m not that sorry it isn’t. The main reason it does not work for me is the base I started with. Lesson learned.
I like the style and might try it again (some day) with another fabric. As I don’t like my necklines so high I would draft it lower as well.

14 comments:

redpointtailor said...

Great result! Studio Faro has great patterns.

Valerie said...

It is a very interesting concept indeed. It would, as you say, look better a bit lower across the neckline and maybe without sleeves but I can see how much work you put in.

a little sewing said...

Very interesting. I look forward to seeing your next project in pattern drafting - it seems a great way to get exactly what you want, although that means it takes a little more time up front.

makeandwear said...

I'm a big fan of the sudio faro blog too, but have yet to try any of the pattern puzzles. It worked well for a first try :)

Lilian said...

Very interesting design. I like draping very much, it is so elegant. Patterndrafting is something I'm not ready for but I will be following your projects closely - and learn from you. I hope you'll try this design again one day (in the near future ;-)

Jenny said...

Wow, that is a super impressive first attempt. I think it looks great on you! Now I'm wanting to give it a try.

SEWN said...

Very impressive! Can't wait to see your next version.

Tany said...

That's an amazing pattern puzzle, Sigrid! You're doing a great job with it. Thanks for the heads up on the Well-Suited blog, I didn't know about it and it looks like an amazing source.
xoxo

Vicki said...

I am always intrigued by Studio Faro's patterns but haven't actually tried one myself. I think a soft rayon knit might work better and not sit up around the neck so much?

debbie said...

I just discovered Well Suited recently.

You did great for a first try. I think you would have had a better outcome if you had spread the slashes more. Then the drape would have been more pronounced.

katherine h said...

Would it work better if you took the sides in and had a more fitted garment?

Gail said...

Anita from Studio Faro is my pattern making teacher. Her pattern puzzles are amazing but can be hard to execute. I've just made a twist skirt but didn't nail it first attempt.

Bunny said...

This is a great concept and once the kinks are worked up, will be wonderful and quite unique. That website is quite inspirational.

studiofaro said...

HI Sigrid. This is an amazing effort. Our PatternPuzzles are so experimental that they usually take a few samples to perfect. If you are thinking of trying a second sample it looks like maybe the horizontal drape across the chest could have a bit more tension. And the vertical shoulder drape could have more gather/fabric. Sometimes turning gathers into tucks can give you a bit more control in the direction of the drape. Love what you have done here and happy to help if you have any questions as you go into your next sample. :)