A new to me pattern company

If you’ve been reading my blog for a long time you know I’m not too much into Indie designers. After the initial hype a few names/brands have survived that offer more than just a simple pencil skirt at a ridiculous price. I still haven’t tried many but this time I was intrigued enough to buy the Wenona shirt pattern from Named Clothing.

I saw a review on this shirt that made me look further. Must have lived under the proverbial rock because I’ve never seen or noticed it before and it has some nice details and there are some nice variations to be found (here and here for example). Though I’m certainly not the first one to try this pattern, I’ll post my experiences with it in this and upcoming posts.

The pattern is a pdf pattern. I’m not fond of them, but have grown accustomed to the idea that it’s the way it is now. Sometimes it is instant gratification if you want the pattern fast or don’t want to pay high shipping costs.

Notes on the pdf file

• Available in English and Finnish
• Lots of instructions (haven’t read it all yet)
• You receive a pdf with instructions, pattern layout etc and 3 files that each contain 2 sizes of the pattern.
• 1 cm seam allowance included
• Overlapped pattern layout: this is a tricky one that is stated on the website, but I did not realise fully what it meant until I traced it. Usually pdf patterns can be cut and taped together right from the printed pages (or traced, like I often do). With this pattern that is not possible as the pattern pieces for the skirt and the sleeves are on top of each other. Which means that even if you don’t want to trace, you’ll have to do that for the sleeves (and skirt if using the dress variation).
• The page numbers are printed in a small size at the edge, no markings on the lines where to match (like StyleArc for those who know their patterns)
• In the instruction pdf the page numbers are not indicated in the overview of pages. It would have been helpful to have that.
• No indication of the pattern size on the printed pages. See below, if you keep two sizes of the pattern, there’s no way of telling to which size a single sheet belongs.

First impression of the sizing

I read that this pattern runs very large, so despite the size chart indicating that I would need a size 40 or 42, I started out tracing the front and back for size 38, which I then compared to my sloper. This is not a close fitting shirt (or I think it shouldn’t be) and decided that size was too small. Which meant I had to print it again, as size 40/42 are in one file together. I can keep it for my daughter, who likes the style too, but otherwise it would have been a complete waste of paper. Based on the finished measurements at bust level I’ve now traced a size 40.

The line drawing suggests waist/hip shaping. There is none! I will have to add it, as I need a bit more room in the hip area. 

I’ve yet to decide whether I cut it from the white linen I have in mind or whether to test it first in another fabric.

Dress from souvenir fabric

It’s not often that I find a fabric store close to me when I’m on holiday. This year, when we drove into the village where we had rented accomodation for the second week, I noted a fabric shop when we entered the village. Of course I had to pay a visit to the store, being at walking distance. It’s a shop specialised in linen fabrics, garments and home decoration (cushions, tea towels) with the name Lin ou l’Autre (nice wordplay).

Two fabrics came home with me as souvenir fabric. Note the flax thread and the cute cards they have. I particularly like the one with the picture of taking a strand of thread out to make sure it’s straight! I’ve often done that.

Both the colour in above picture and of the finished garment below are too bright. It’s really red, but not as fire-arms red as the pictures suggest.

I made a dress from one of the fabrics I bought, which is fast in my book, only been on the shelves for about 3 weeks!

The pattern I used is Vogue 8972, view B.

I made a muslin of the upper part because I didn’t want to take a risk with my good fabric. It has pattern pieces for different cup sizes. I used D-cup and that was fine. As always I had to lengthen the bodice, which I did at the indicated line, which was in the waistline pattern pieces. That certainly was wrong: the upper part ended too high, not covering the bust area, which made the waistline look silly. I added the extra space to the upper bodice pattern pieces and that was where it should have been in the pattern too. As you can see I add quite a bit (4 cm).

Unfortunately the photos don’t do the pattern justice. I really love this pattern and how it looks and feels on me. I think it’s a great pattern for hourglass figures.

The lining was sewn by machine. It was a bit of a puzzle. The instructions tell you to do quite a bit of hand sewing. More than necessary in my opinion. I know it’s not that difficult or time consuming, but I like to do it by machine if I can. In this case it’s extra complicated as you can’t leave the shoulder seams open till the last moment, which is one of the ways to do it. Not if there’s a cap sleeve of course.

It was a bit complicated and one day I might make photos and write it down properly. For now I will have to make do with some short notes I made myself too.

Summer!

July already. It’s hot and dry in our country for weeks on end. Very uncommon. It gives the nice summer feeling though and a lot to do in the garden and my allotment too. It takes some time to water it all, not all plants thrive as they would normally, others do much better. I’m already picking the loveliest tomatoes from our plot (there’s a greenhouse where I grow them) and looking forward to tasting a few special varieties that need a bit more time. But hey, that’s not what you’re reading my blog for. I’ve been sewing a little too.

An update on the Burda dress from the June issue I started before my holiday: I didn’t like the baby blue on me and it’s been laying around for weeks. As I write this it’s in the washing machine after having dyed the partial constructed dress. If I like the result I will finish it, otherwise it will be the bin.

The blouse I show today is a pattern I’ve used very often before. It’s an adapted Ottobre pattern that I like for summer. This fabric is very fluid, which makes the neckline a bit too deep for everyday wearing. Must remember to adapt the pattern.

I call this my “crazy fabric” as it’s totally not my normal style. Something I do sometimes for summer tops, not on purpose, but I made this top in a “not me” print several years ago too.

The fabric has a visual illusion: it looks like tucks but it’s all printed. Several people have thought it was a special sewing treatment by me: none at all!