Wednesday, April 18, 2018

Welt pocket with angled seams

It was fun to read your answers to the post with the picture of the strange pattern piece. Very good those of you who were close or knew the answer!

The welt is also called “origami welt”, I believe Kenneth D. King calls it that. Its main feature is that the seams are not at the sides of the welt, but as you saw in my previous post, on the back. It makes for a welt with less bulk.

Below the steps I took to make the pattern piece for it:

This is the original pattern piece, with foldline and straight of grain indicated.


On the part that will be the back of the welt, two lines are drawn where the seam lines will be. To clarify I’ve marked the seams with line notches.


The seam lines are cut and added to the front part of the welt


The final pattern piece, in paper and in fabric as shown in my “riddle” post. The fabric one is the mirror image, with seams added.



Sew the seams, matching the notches (I added 1cm seams to the pattern piece and made the edge match)


Trim to the points and press.


Turn the welt and press.


Two welts, ready to be inserted in the garment.



  1. Sigrid: Very clever. What a nice way to hide the seams at the back of the welt. You you be able to share a copy of your pattern as a pdf file?

    1. Hi Lisam, I'm sorry but I just don't have the time to do that. It's quite a bit of work to make photos and post how I do things like this. Making a (good) pattern in pdf format, make it downloadable etc. is just not what I'd like to do with my blog right now. I've done it in the first years of blogging but have to set my priorities in a different way now. Sorry.

  2. That is really useful - thank you!

  3. Yes, very useful. And just in time for my coat pockets. :-) Thank you!

  4. Oh ik zat er helemaal naast LOL

  5. Well I would never have guessed that!

  6. That’s fantastic, Sigrid! Thabjs for sharing the magic with us. 👍🏽

  7. How clever, I've never seen this before.

  8. How cool! This reminds me of a Threads tutorial I saw once for reducing bulk at the corners of shirt collars. Here's the link:
    I tried this method on a tunic this month, only I used it on the collar stand (it didn't have a collar). It helped me get a much better finish on my collar stand, and I am never going back!

  9. Thank you for sharing this, what a great idea, I shall use it asap

  10. Thanks for sharing! I've never seen this before!