Skip to main content

The difference a shoulderpad makes

I’m working on a spring jacket. This time I’m not using many tailoring techniques I wanted to make a “quick” jacket, to be combined with a few other items, still to be sewn.
The pattern is Vogue 1439. Out of print but still sold at Vogue patterns.
image
This picture from the Vogue website shows the jacket worn with a cowl neck top, not a good choice for this style jacket. Not a very flattering photo.
My fabric is totally different and not showing the design lines as well. I will go into more details on the pattern and what I changed in another post but wanted to show you the difference a shoulderpad makes.
In the first picture the sleeve on the right hand side (picture left) has a shoulderpad pinned to it, the other not.
jacket 1
A few minutes later, the other shoulderpad is pinned too. Can you see that it lifts a bit and als stabilizes the front? I interfaced the front pattern pieces, but did not make a shoulder shield as I mostly do in jackets. But I did add sleeveheads and shoulderpads as I think it hugely improves the appearance of a jacket.
IMG_0595 (002)
It’s a rather close fitting jacket on me, only suitable to wear with a simple t-shirt or camisole, but that’s fine. I hope to finish this jacket very soon.

Comments

  1. Oh wow!! what a big difference! I never could have figured that out if you didn’t explain.

    ReplyDelete
  2. Lovely fabric. Looking good.

    ReplyDelete
  3. I always love your jackets. Is this one lined?
    I can't imagine an unloved jacket with shoulder pads...

    ReplyDelete
  4. Great jacket and great commentary on the shoulder pad differences. The stabilising effect on the upper front area really does make a big difference. As well as the pad, putting in a sleeve head gives a very sleek finish to the shoulder line as well - jackets can so easily be let down when the lack it.

    Although the pattern is OOP, the turned in collar and neckline features are very current; I'm surprised that Vogue have withdrawn it.

    ReplyDelete
  5. looks great, and I agree, the shoulder pad does work to create a nice structure in a jacket. good example.

    ReplyDelete
  6. Thankyou for this demonstration! I never realized how dramatically a shoulder pad affects the whole fit across the front upper chest and neck. I bought some jacket patterns a while ago not realizing they would need to be constructed with shoulder pads and I had no idea how to change the pattern so it wouldn't need a shoulder pad and now looking at your demonstration I realize my instinct was correct in assuming the jackets would have been a total fail :)

    ReplyDelete
  7. Beautiful fabric for this jacket. Thank you for detailing your construction always a great inspiration.

    Marie

    ReplyDelete
  8. I am surprised at the amount of people that don't realise the benefits of a shoulder pad, and you have shown the benefits perfectly. I look forward to seeing more.

    ReplyDelete
  9. Awesome to see shoulder pad love proved once more. It really can solve fit issues and certainly makes the wider of us, in the hips anyway, look a bit more balanced in our shape. Great post, Sigrid!

    ReplyDelete

Post a Comment

It's always nice to have feedback on what I'm posting about. All comments, also positive criticism, are always highly appreciated.
Leuk als je een berichtje schrijft, altijd leuk om te lezen, ook opbouwende kritiek!

Popular posts from this blog

How to sew a sleeveless top with facings

How lovely to read the nice comments on my jacket. Grumpy without coffee commented that the original artist for the cartoon (which apparently was for books) was Sarah Andersen. Thank you for mentioning it. Beckster asked about the way I closed the center back seam of the lining. I did it by machine. She also said “Although I have not tried it, I have been told that the lining can be made by using the pattern minus the seam allowance and facings.” Well, certainly not without seam allowances, it should be without hem and without the facings. Important is that you have about 5 cm hem in the jacket for this to work. And I would always make a center back pleat. It gives you space to move without the lining pulling on the fabric. Next time I make a jacket I will try to make photos of the process of bagging the lining (Patsijean said she would have liked to see them and probably more would be interested). Might take a while though, see the end of this post.-----------------------------I mad…

Dress Burda June 2018, construction picture

Once in a while a pattern shows up in a magazine that I want to make immediately. This Burda dress from the June issue is one of those.It’s mainly the linedrawing that’s interesting, as the fabric they used for the magazine issue is not really showing the design lines. There would have been better accent options for the piping they uses. If you’re like me and in general don’t look at the Burda instructions but do it by experience or your way anyhow, DON’T go on autopilot with this one. Sleeveless dress: I close shoulder seams at the last possible moment. Not here, as you have to sew the bias band in between the center and side parts. The band has no seam (and I wouldn’t add one, too many layers of fabric), so the shoulder has to be sewn earlier than I’m used to.Darts: I was inclined to sew all darts as first step and realised really just in time that the front dart is taking up the edge of the band. Front and back band! I was stupified why the angle of the band was not matching the si…

Hilarious description

This week I bought the January Burda issue and browsing through it this top, and especially its description had my attention. Written by someone who has no understanding of modern, functional fabrics and never goes to the gym. Don’t know whether it’s the same in the English issue of the magazine, but in Dutch it says “Sport shirts often have the disadvantage to be close fitted.  This restricts your movement. Our suggestion: make this shirt with a full draped back.“I didn’t care to check their description of sports shirts they published before, but thought this one was hilarious.Off to trace a pattern from this magazine (not this one).