Tuesday, August 11, 2015

Nice progress

My jacket is coming along nicely, though it’s not finished yet. Just showing some inside photos  and a first idea of how it looks now. The sleeves don’t have sleeve heads yet, but already have a nice curve.

sleeve 1

The inside looks like this. This time I’m using speed tailoring techniques, using fusibles. Two types of interfacing are required here: a light and a heavier fusible interfacing. The shoulder placket is a canvas, held in place by a fusible as well.

inside back

It’s quite a bit of work pressing all the interfacing in, but once that’s done, construction is pretty straightforward.

jacket inside

Anne asked in her comment “When you use the word 'sloper' does this have seam allowances on it or is it more of a block, so without seam allowances? I'm assuming that the burda pattern, being old and from a magazine doesn't have seam allowances?”
As I understood the word sloper and the word block have the same meaning in pattern drafting. It’s a basic pattern including some ease based on your moulage. The moulage has no ease. Here (meaning The Netherlands where I live) Burda magazine patterns, new or old, don’t have seam allowances added to them. Both my sloper and the Burda pattern don’t have seam allowances. That works fine for me, it’s the way I learned to sew and for me it’s also easier to evaluate the size of a pattern if seam allowances are not included.

Thank you Vicky for mentioning the book by Lynda Maynard on using a sloper with your pattern. For the moment I’m fine but it’s good to know there’s a reference book available.


  1. I take it that the hair canvas is held in place by the lighter fusible that extends into the seam allowances? I like that. Makes it easier. My husband has it on his garage and estate sale list (he has these for our kids as well) of an ironing press. That would be really nice to have for big fusing jobs like this! Are the sleeves self drafted? The jacket looks amazing; perfectly tailored and professional looking.

  2. Yes, the hair canvas is held in place by the fusible. Indeed easy!

  3. That sleeve is beautiful. Can I ask, do you trace the patten outline on your fabric and then add seam allowances as you cut out, or do you add allowances to your pattern at tracing time then pin and cut add common in English speaking countries. The former always seems morecagitate to me as you are matching seam lines when sewing , not edges, but I don't know anyone who actually does it.

  4. Honey your jackets always come along nicely - this one is beautiful.

  5. Very nice jacket. I really like your fabric. Can't wait to see the finished jacket.
    See me @ www.sewplus.blogspot.com

  6. Ooh your jacket is looking so lovely.

  7. Oooh, you can't beat a lovely, smooth shoulder line and you've certainly got it on that jacket now. It's coming on nicely.

  8. @Lyndle: you do know (at least virtually) someone who actually does it: me. I don't often use default seam allowances and even when I do I mark actual seamlines where it's important. For example the top of the princess seams or the sleeves. I want them to match accurately to the point in the other pattern piece. I don't get that accuracy when using default seam allowances. For most of my sewing I use carbon tracing paper to mark the seam lines.
    It's the way I learned it, no seam allowances were ever added to patterns here (not even today).

  9. Thank you! I'd like to work this way. I often find it hard to find carbon paper that transfers properly, but I will experiment with more brands. I do do mock ups by marking the seams and it makes things go together much more nicely, especially when matching curves. Your work is always beautiful so I will take you as my inspiration!

  10. A really beautiful jacket, love how the length of the bodice gives the waist such a smooth definition. sewing patterns

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