Skip to main content

Pattern drafting

I’ve (finally) succumbed to the idea that I should try to make my own patterns. One of my Dutch commenters has asked a few times why I did not do that, as I was always so struggling with muslins, patterns etc. I did learn the basics of pattern drafting years ago but never got round to properly doing it for myself, did think it was too much work. Going to the sewing class with my fitting issues I was convinced that this was a good thing to do after all and I started drafting the bodice part, first on default measurements, after that on my own measurements. Surprise, surprise in my last lesson, the fit was actually rather good first time round. Combined with the fact that I sewed a wadder of a blouse this week which I tried to fit properly from a pattern and failed horribly in the armscye area, I will continue to work on pattern drafting.

My next lesson isn’t till next week, but I’m going fast forward and tried to draft a dress from BurdaStyle’s April issue and even made a muslin of the top part already.

It’s dress no. 117 which I discussed with Hilde and Joana on the day we ran together. We all had seen it in the previews and thought it might be nice to all sew this and wear it on or next get together. I got the magazine and to my disappointment, it was a petite sized pattern. As I’m already 6 cm taller than the normal length BurdaStyle is drafted for, petite sizes are definitely not for me.  So it was either de-petite the pattern and do the other alterations I do for most patterns anyway, or draft my own pattern.

First result, I thought I might need the extra space in the front to get the skirt hang properly, but have pinned the darts in the second photo, which is much better. I will transfer the changes to the pattern and the crossing part will not have the dart. For now I kept the normal bust dart. No FBA!

The neckline is too low to wear without a cami most of the time. Making it higher would make the lines very different. What do you think?

The zipper for the back was not long enough which makes it look a bit frumpy. Very clear is the difference in both shoulders, an area to change on the right side.

Though I messed up the first time drafting this, it was relatively easy. It took me two evenings to get here.

Comments

  1. How exciting! I think you nailed it! This looks very much like the line drawing. I've been considering drafting from my measurements and have even bought a few pattern drafting books and textbooks. I figure how much worse would my own drafting be than the ones from the companies?

    I think you should keep drafting.

    ReplyDelete
  2. That looks good and I think for only 2 nights work it's pretty good. I don't think the neckline is too low; it looks like a very nice depth.

    ReplyDelete
  3. that looks really god, like it fits you very well. I like the design of the pattern, too. Good Job!

    ReplyDelete
  4. Wonderful! I want to do the same - pattern draft that is :) I have already drafted a skirt (that was easy for my shape) and am doing the Craftsy course for the bodice. I think you can go an inch higher at the neckline without upsetting the lines. No harm it trying it out. You can always take off again.

    ReplyDelete
  5. I think it is to wide at the neck in comparison to the original but still looks good

    ReplyDelete
  6. Ontzettend leuk!!

    Zou je de schouderlijn aan beide kanten niet een klein beetje korter maken? Aan de linkerkant zou dat ook wel eens mooier kunnen worden (of misschien denk ik dat alleen maar en komt dat door de stand op de foto, ik kan niet goed zien waar de schouder precies ophoudt)

    ReplyDelete
  7. Looks great! How exciting that the fit actually is quite good already and you just have to do some tweaking. I'm going to trace the pattern today, I hope I can figure out the fba. I still haven't checked my back length (I think it's shorter than average), so I'll just go ahead and try the petite size in a muslin.
    But I'm going for a run first!
    By the way, in the photos the neckline doesn't look too low, I think. Must be moving around?

    ReplyDelete
  8. If you want the neckline to be higher, you can make the neck narrower at the shoulder...this will bring UP the point of crossover (the 'V').
    Nice dress!

    ReplyDelete
  9. Sigrid -

    Pattern drafting requires a whole lot of time, skill and patience. I applaud you for even trying. Keep at it. I'm sure in no time at all you will have an absolutely perfectly fitted garment.

    Happy stitching.

    ReplyDelete
  10. I think it looks great.

    I wouldn't take the neckline up much, but I agree that narrowing the neckline slightly at the shoulder will do the trick.

    With your skills already in place, drafting your own patterns should be much easier than trying to alter commercial patterns IMO.

    Keep moving forward. You're almost there!

    ReplyDelete
  11. There is so much involved in learning pattern drafting that I've felt the same way you have; that it's too much work to draft my own patterns. I took Kenneth Kings moulage class and never did anything with it. The pattern drafting classes on Craftsy based on the same moulage system(same teacher) are wonderful. She's clear and answers questions really thoughtfully. I still have yet to actually draft something! But, it's coming.
    This looks good! The more you do it of course the easier it will be and the faster it will be.

    ReplyDelete
  12. Well done! I would also love to learn pattern drafting and reading your blog and your adventures is encouraging me to continue too! I can learn from you - Thank you!

    ReplyDelete
  13. Hi there! Changing the darts to vertical darts, good thinking!
    I've finished my muslin for this dress today, it fits like a glove, and I love the sleeves (no extra ease, they just ... fit). Only problem, the neckline is LOW. I did raise the neckline but then it got all gapey. Now I'm thinking about sewing a triagle an call it a day. We'll see.

    ReplyDelete
  14. I've been delving into pattern making and I think the starting point has to be a perfectly fitted block, then moving on to design elements. This dress is going to be great when your done.

    ReplyDelete

Post a Comment

It's always nice to have feedback on what I'm posting about. All comments, also positive criticism, are always highly appreciated.
Leuk als je een berichtje schrijft, altijd leuk om te lezen, ook opbouwende kritiek!

Popular posts from this blog

How to sew a sleeveless top with facings

How lovely to read the nice comments on my jacket. Grumpy without coffee commented that the original artist for the cartoon (which apparently was for books) was Sarah Andersen. Thank you for mentioning it. Beckster asked about the way I closed the center back seam of the lining. I did it by machine. She also said “Although I have not tried it, I have been told that the lining can be made by using the pattern minus the seam allowance and facings.” Well, certainly not without seam allowances, it should be without hem and without the facings. Important is that you have about 5 cm hem in the jacket for this to work. And I would always make a center back pleat. It gives you space to move without the lining pulling on the fabric. Next time I make a jacket I will try to make photos of the process of bagging the lining (Patsijean said she would have liked to see them and probably more would be interested). Might take a while though, see the end of this post.-----------------------------I mad…

Hilarious description

This week I bought the January Burda issue and browsing through it this top, and especially its description had my attention. Written by someone who has no understanding of modern, functional fabrics and never goes to the gym. Don’t know whether it’s the same in the English issue of the magazine, but in Dutch it says “Sport shirts often have the disadvantage to be close fitted.  This restricts your movement. Our suggestion: make this shirt with a full draped back.“I didn’t care to check their description of sports shirts they published before, but thought this one was hilarious.Off to trace a pattern from this magazine (not this one).

Lining a vest

In this post I'll describe how to line a vest. This description is based on the technique that is described in a Burda sewing book I have (in Dutch).

For your information: here you can find this description in a PDF-file.

First the result of the vest, I had no buttons to go with it, will add these later.


The back of the lining is cut 3-4 centimeters from the fold of the fabric. This gives moving space and prevents your outer fabric from pulling.


Sew the center back seam partially: 5 centimeters on the top, and a few centimetres in the waist and on the bottom.



Sew outside of vest as normal, but do not sew the side seams.


Sew lining, without sewing side seams.

Pin and seam vest and lining at front, armholes and back hem. Stitch to the exact seamline of the sideseam, not over it (see next picture)



Make sure you mark the side seam, to be sure that you do not stitch too far.


Clip all round seams, grade seams if your fabric is thick.


Turn the vest by putting your hand through the side s…