Skip to main content

Jacket construction–part 5–Finished

In my last post I showed pictures of the body of the jacket without sleeves.  Inserting the sleeves with this fabric was no problem. The extra ease in the sleevecap was easy to distribute in the armscyce. The first picture shows the extra fabric that is eased. In the next picture I have cut little pieces out of the seam allowance to smooth the sleevecap.


The lower part is sewn twice between the notches with a little space in between, then the seam allowance is trimmed only between the notches on the lower part of the armscyce.


The sleevehead is made of a 5 cm wide (2 inch) strip of fabric. Time to clean out my sewing room properly, as there must be some special fabric I use for this, but I couldn’t find it, and I looked hard. This works well though.



Now the main jacket was ready. Time for the lining. I used an off-white silk fabric that I bought in New York two years ago during a lovely meeting with Nancy K, Robin and Meg. The outer fabric has silk in it as well, so thought this was a good combination.

I used the bagging technique as described in the book Power Sewing by Sandra Betzina. In the first picture you see the opening in the back of the lining



Of course some photos of the finished jacket. The light is difficult, some photos are with flash, some without, making the color different. Even though I lenghtened the sleeve I would have preferred it a bit longer. It’s fine, but my preference is longer.

I’m not going to make a big deal of that, I like the jacket very much. It’s a lot of work making it like this, but I know it will last longer. A jacket that I made with similar techniques in July 2008 still looks good and I’ve worn that one quite a few times.


Time for a a little less time consuming project. Not sure yet what it will be.


  1. It's beautiful! The care you took in constructing it is evident.

  2. It looks great! Worth the time.

  3. What a great fit through the shoulders! It looks fantastic. It will be fun to wear this Autumn.

  4. Looks amazing Sigrid. Very high end boutique and a great fit.

  5. so beautiful - enjoy wearing this gorgeous jacket!

  6. A wonderful jacket Sigrid, as usual, the fit is fantastic.

  7. Sigrid,
    As always, the jacket is beautiful, and thank you for taking the time to show the process.

  8. This is a great write up. I always have to relearn the finishing techniques because I tend to rush - and now you've shown me why I should slow down.
    Your jacket is gorgeous.

  9. Wow! That's lovely! What great workmanship and it shows in the finished jacket.

    That zipper turned out perfect too.

    I can see that being work with wool slacks and jeans and would work great with a pretty scarf. So chic!

  10. Wow! That's lovely! What great workmanship and it shows in the finished jacket.

    That zipper turned out perfect too.

    I can see that being work with wool slacks and jeans and would work great with a pretty scarf. So chic!

  11. Beautiful jacket. The style and the colors in the fabric are so versatile. I am sure you will wear it often.

  12. Beautifully made, beautifully fitted jacket. It will go with anything.

  13. Beautiful jacket! Thanks so much for sharing the detailed steps of your construction! I really appreciate the time and effort this took.

    Lynda in LV

  14. Beautiful jacket and it looks impeccable from the inside too. I am really inspired by the idea of using a boucle to make a moto style jacket.

  15. Your jacket is beautiful! Well worth the time and care put into it. Thank you for the detailed construction notes :)

  16. Beautiful work. Great timeless style.

  17. Beautiful jacket. Great fit and nice workmanship!

  18. you have power in sewing......glad to know you n your blog.....i'm tika from indonesia......


Post a Comment

Comments are very much appreciated! I read all of them, try to answer the questions but don't always have time to react to comments.

Popular posts from this blog

How to sew a sleeveless top with facings

Edit to make this post only about the technique, not my ramblings on other subjects.
This is about making a sleeveless cowl neck top with a facing for both the front and the back. In this way no special finishing of the arm holes is needed. This method is based on Carolyn’s way of making a top with all seams enclosed.

Let me show you how to do this. It’s a good reminder for myself too, I forget when I haven’t done it in a while.
First you need a pattern that has a facing for the back that extends below the armhole. Also the front facing has to extend below the armhole. Easy enough to adapt a pattern, just trace a line about 5 cm (2 inches) below the armhole. The photo below shows you the facing of the back

Step 1: stabilize the back neckline of the back pattern piece

Step 2: with right sides together, sew the neckline of the back and the back facing, press but do not topstitch

Step 3: With right sides together, sew the armhole of the front to the armhole of the front facing.

Step 4:…

Dress Burda June 2018, construction picture

Once in a while a pattern shows up in a magazine that I want to make immediately. This Burda dress from the June issue is one of those.

It’s mainly the linedrawing that’s interesting, as the fabric they used for the magazine issue is not really showing the design lines. There would have been better accent options for the piping they uses.
If you’re like me and in general don’t look at the Burda instructions but do it by experience or your way anyhow, DON’T go on autopilot with this one.
Sleeveless dress: I close shoulder seams at the last possible moment. Not here, as you have to sew the bias band in between the center and side parts. The band has no seam (and I wouldn’t add one, too many layers of fabric), so the shoulder has to be sewn earlier than I’m used to.
Darts: I was inclined to sew all darts as first step and realised really just in time that the front dart is taking up the edge of the band. Front and back band! I was stupified why the angle of the band was not matching th…

Pants fitting, part 1

First, I'd like to thank all who commented on the fitting issues for my pants. I did look at Debbie's site and somehow thought it would not be the "one" answer to my problem, as I've become convinced that there is no one-step solution for me. But I think I have found part of the solution there. Tonight I spent adapting my pattern and making a muslin.

My starting point, after reading all the information was the Threads issue of January 2006, an article by Joyce Murphy Adjusting pants from waist to seat. In this article she describes "body space" as an important point in fitting pants. And it does make sense to me, as women have very different shapes. One needs more space in the front, and others (like me) more in the back.
The picture above shows the body space in my pattern, which is 15 cm. I tried to measure my own bodyspace by taking two rulers, and it is 19 cm, which means that 2 cm more is needed (half of the extra width in the pattern). The article d…