Skip to main content

How I used hair canvas in my coat

It’s Friday evening almost 12.00 pm and the coat is finished and I’m quite happy with the result. Pictures later in the weekend during daylight and after some cleaning of my sewing room and some more general household chores that I didn’t do this week, as I used most of the time that I had apart from work for this coat. Now I’m waiting for DD to come home, just the time to write a post on how I used the hair canvas.

This technique is described in Kenneth King’s book Cool couture. A wonderful book that I have written about before. I greatly admire his clear style of writing and inspirational ideas.

Hair canvas is very stiff fabric and is used in classic tailoring (men’s jackets mostly I think). Because of the weight of the collar I thought it a good idea to interface the front of the coat with hair canvas, but this should not be in the seam allowances. I used this technique before in my weekender bag, and now for the first time in a garment. The hair canvas must have been in my collection for I think 20 years!

Cut the pattern pieces from the hair canvas and a cheap, thin fabric, including the seam allowances.
Pin the layers together and mark at the width of the seam allowance (this is different from what Kenneth King describes, he sews directly using the ruler on the sewing machine plate.)

Now sew with a serpentine stitch (or triple zigzag) 2 to 3 mm within the marked line.
Cut away the seam allowance plus 2 to 3 mm of the hair canvas. The extra gives some space for turn of cloth.
On the other side, cut away the  inside part of the cheap fabric. The only part that remains of that fabric is the seam allowance.
Pin the hair canvas to the garment fabric, with the side where you see only the seam allowance on top.
Baste the layers in the seam allowance. I did this by machine, mr. King does this by hand with a silk thread (there is a difference in couture sewing ;)
The outside where you see my red basting thread.
After sewing the dart, I catch-stitched it on the inside to the hair canvas.
Now you can sew the pattern piece as instructed in the pattern. No significant bulk added to the seam allowances.
 

Comments

  1. very helpful post! i am getting ready to make a winter coat--since it is the only garment people see me wearing during the Chicago winter months. i will keep this post marked IMPORTANT! thanks.

    ReplyDelete
  2. That is a great technique. I have Cool Couture, and it is full of wonderful ideas. I am anxious to see your new, beautiful coat. You are so very talented. Thank you for sharing your garments with us.

    ReplyDelete
  3. That is a much easier way than the traditional method of catchstitching the hair canvas to the fashion fabric, which I have done. There is nothing like using hair canvas in a coat.

    ReplyDelete
  4. Very interesting. I must get his book :)

    ReplyDelete
  5. Cool couture will be a must add to my sewing reference collection. Thanks for sharing.

    ReplyDelete
  6. Would love to have you join the month of tops in April!

    ReplyDelete
  7. Lovely! And it was stunning in person too.

    ReplyDelete
  8. Hi Sigrid! I purchased this book about a month ago and am going to be making another coat or two for this winter. So glad you made reference to this. There's so much good info in the book I would have missed it. Thanks so much for the extra pics of your work on your blog.

    ReplyDelete

Post a Comment

It's always nice to have feedback on what I'm posting about. All comments, also positive criticism, are always highly appreciated.
Leuk als je een berichtje schrijft, altijd leuk om te lezen, ook opbouwende kritiek!

Popular posts from this blog

How to sew a sleeveless top with facings

How lovely to read the nice comments on my jacket. Grumpy without coffee commented that the original artist for the cartoon (which apparently was for books) was Sarah Andersen. Thank you for mentioning it. Beckster asked about the way I closed the center back seam of the lining. I did it by machine. She also said “Although I have not tried it, I have been told that the lining can be made by using the pattern minus the seam allowance and facings.” Well, certainly not without seam allowances, it should be without hem and without the facings. Important is that you have about 5 cm hem in the jacket for this to work. And I would always make a center back pleat. It gives you space to move without the lining pulling on the fabric. Next time I make a jacket I will try to make photos of the process of bagging the lining (Patsijean said she would have liked to see them and probably more would be interested). Might take a while though, see the end of this post.-----------------------------I mad…

Hilarious description

This week I bought the January Burda issue and browsing through it this top, and especially its description had my attention. Written by someone who has no understanding of modern, functional fabrics and never goes to the gym. Don’t know whether it’s the same in the English issue of the magazine, but in Dutch it says “Sport shirts often have the disadvantage to be close fitted.  This restricts your movement. Our suggestion: make this shirt with a full draped back.“I didn’t care to check their description of sports shirts they published before, but thought this one was hilarious.Off to trace a pattern from this magazine (not this one).

Dress Burda June 2018, construction picture

Once in a while a pattern shows up in a magazine that I want to make immediately. This Burda dress from the June issue is one of those.It’s mainly the linedrawing that’s interesting, as the fabric they used for the magazine issue is not really showing the design lines. There would have been better accent options for the piping they uses. If you’re like me and in general don’t look at the Burda instructions but do it by experience or your way anyhow, DON’T go on autopilot with this one. Sleeveless dress: I close shoulder seams at the last possible moment. Not here, as you have to sew the bias band in between the center and side parts. The band has no seam (and I wouldn’t add one, too many layers of fabric), so the shoulder has to be sewn earlier than I’m used to.Darts: I was inclined to sew all darts as first step and realised really just in time that the front dart is taking up the edge of the band. Front and back band! I was stupified why the angle of the band was not matching the si…