Tuesday, October 28, 2014

Bra copy finished

First of all I must add the information Monika from LaMona gave in the comment on my previous post. She said she always takes the underwire from a bra before copying. That way the cup parts can be traced flat easily. I just had not thought about doing that and initially did not want to do anything to my new rtw bra, not even taking out the tack securing the wire. But in the end I did and there was a small difference to the cup I traced with and without wire. Not a lot but in bra making it is about small changes making a difference. So my advise would be: if you can, remove the wire and then trace.

 

For the bra I used a remant of the lace that Pauline gave me as a gift about two years ago. I made a bra from it then and there was just enough left for this one. It’s not symmetrical. I placed the red flowers at the same spot to create a synmetrical image

The back on the dressform looks about the same as it does on me. In the pattern piece the center back is almost vertical, while wearing it the shape forms automatically. I used a 2 eye/hook closure, not having any 1 eye/hook closures like the original in my stash.

Also I would have like bows that are a bit larger, but to go to Kantje Boord for bows only….

 

A few details of the finished item.

And a few finishing details. The under and side cups are interfaced with a non stretch tule. At the seam with the lace upper cup I did not fold the seam this time, but used a narrow elastic and stitched that first to the seam on the edge of the stitchline, then trimmed the seam and topstitched from the right side. I think this is a very neat finish. There was no need for elastic but it was the only material at hand and I used it without stretching.

Outside

Inside

The band was made of a firm elastic material that is sold here as powernet, just like the original, which does not have lycra in the band as well. The part beside the cup is interfaced with the same non-stretching tule that is the interfacing for the cups. Basically the only stretch is from  the part of the band that has only one layer of fabric.

 

      

Did everything go smoothly? Of course not, there is no project without using a seam ripper ;) But at the end I had to make another change.

When the bra was almost finished I tried it on and noticed a difference. The bridge was too wide. Wearable but just not completely right. Then I talked to my friend Valerie, who sews lingerie too and she wondered whether it might be the hole in it. I had already sean that the hole was a bit bigger than the original but now found out it made it stretch more. Below you cna see the difference in my version and the original. I solved the problem by sewing the center of the bridge together by hand. It makes such a difference!

   

There will be more bra’s from this pattern in the future.

18 comments:

Allison said...

Exquisite work as always, Sigrid. Your bras are always incredible and your workmanship is superb!

cidell said...

Lovely and inspiring. Thanks for sharing how you cloned your bra.

Nancy K said...

A beautiful bra, as always. I always get inspired when I see one of your bras and then I think no, one thing it's better not doing myself.

corina said...

Mooi geworden hoor, wat een werk heb je er van gemaakt.
Dank je wel voor het delen.

Corina

Vicki said...

Very pretty and beautifully constructed.

Ms. McCall said...

Beautiful bra - I love seeing all the detail photos. I copied a bra a while back and used organza because I was afraid to take out the underwire. I wonder if I might have got a better copy if I had done it... It's interesting that there also seems to be a little stitch in your original bra right where you needed one. I guess it really did need to be reinforced in that spot.

Diana Nuland van said...

Schitterende bh heb je gemaakt.

Kathy {Kathy Sews} said...

Love the little hole detail in the bridge and I love those straps. Just gorgeous!

Carolyn (Diary of a Sewing Fanatic) said...

As always your bra is awesome!

Lauriana said...

What a lovely bra!
Well made as usual and such a great job on the pattern.
I really like the finish you used on the cup seam. Clean and without bulk. I will try to copy that.

Having a non-stretch lining in the part of the band around the cups is something I often do. And sometimes, especially in strapless and balconet styles, I insert a piece of boning along the edge where it meets the stretchy part of the band. I've been told it's a feature mostly used for larger cup sizes (so, more for you than for me)to stabilize the band but I like experimenting with stuff like that.

Aline said...

Eenvoudigweg prachtig. Ik ben erg onder de indruk.

Louisa said...

That's just gorgeous! Such beautiful sewing. I'm happy if I can just get my bras to fit, never mind look fabulous too...

Anonymous said...

Thanks for all of the details, Sigrid. I'm in the middle of trying to make my first copied bra now.

vivienz said...

Oh, that's just lovely! I have the urge to fit in a little lingerie making when I see you next month, too!

LaMona said...

Lovely work! And yes, only millimeters can ruin a good fit.

pdiddly said...

I loved that lace, and your bra is so pretty - nice pattern.

Gail said...

Your bras would retail for $100 here. Beauty and skill to be admired.

a little sewing said...

That is so extremely pretty.