My experience with the two jacket muslins and the reactions in the comments have given me some food for thought on what I want to make and on the sizing issue. Carmen gave some in depth reaction about the fit in the back. She gave constructive criticism in a kind way, which I highly appreciated. Thank you Carmen.
About the style: I like the general style of the KwikSew pattern better, but agree fully that it is too boxy for me. A more fitted style will be better. The lines in the back of the second muslin are better, because they can be changed more easily than the KwikSew pattern, which only has a center back seam. Also I think that the classic motorcycle collar is to be preferred, though I like the collar in the second muslin too. Not for the fabric I plan to use though.
It will mean some mix and match.
And I’ve spent a lot of thoughts on the fit. Carmen said that if there was a problem with fit in my garments, usually the back is too large. I do remember having had a similar comment earlier and I had some issues in the back fitting department with the grey jacket I made this summer. There is a problem in the back more often now I look at it with different eyes. Tonight I compared my measurements taken a few months ago (and not changed significantly I think) with Burda’s size chart. In the past years I learned to look at the bust measurement that corresponds with my high bust measurement and do an fba. Often not giving the result I want. Burda gives a lot of other measurements too that other companies do not provide. The back width is one of them.
Now I checked my back width with the charts and to my great surprise my back width corresponds with a Burda size 34 (US 8), my full bust measurement is between 42 and 44!! In all my sewing life I simply never registered these measurements as being so different. Of course I know my back is narrow and I don’t have the average cup size. Just never thought of having a size 34 anywhere in my body (I'm tall and not skinny). I mostly use a size 40 for tops/jackets. Which explains why the back of my garments is too large. The big question now is how to proceed if I want to make the back fitting better. Is it starting with a smaller size and doing a larger fba. Or is it using the size I’ve done till now and making it smaller in the back? I'm not (yet) ready for starting pattern drafting from scratch.
A few muslins to go, that’s for sure…