I’m working on my blouse (actually it’s almost finished) and have cut the upper- and under collar as one pattern piece. I did this before, didn’t use it last time, simply because I didn’t think of it. This way there is only one small seam at the under collar, the sides of the collar have no seam. This reduces bulk.
In the Burda pattern I use the collar is half a collar, that must be cut twice on the fold. For this way of working you need two of these half collar patterns.
For my previous blouse from the same pattern, I had added 1 cm seam allowances to the pattern. At the side of the pattern this will have to be removed.
The next picture shows the two pieces that are taped together at the seam (pointed side of collar), you see the seam allowances overlapping the pattern. At the right side it will be cut on the fold (center of upper collar), on the left part (under collar) a seam allowance must be added.
Fold the fabric and place the pattern on the fold and cut. As you can see the under collar will be on the bias. How much will depend on the angle of the collar.
Mark the corners by clipping there.
Interface the collar with a thin interfacing.Both upper and under collar are interfaced, so the interfacing mustn’t be too thick. Of course you can interface only the upper collar, or not interface the seam allowances (which I will do next time again, as I mostly do).
Stitch the long side of the collar and trim the seam allowance. Cut the corner in a diagonal (not in the picture)
Turn the collar and press (preferably the upper collar seam a bit over the edge, so that the under collar will not be visible.
Topstitch the collar
The back of the collar, you can see that the front is visible at the top, just a tiny bit so that the under collar is not visible.
Hope this is helpful to some of you.