Pff, I'm happy it's Saturday, the deadlines were met. Still a lot of work to do (happy with that in these times), but not this weekend.
I received the book Bra makers manual on Wednesday. I ordered it last Saturday from Elingeria in Germany, very fast shipment! And I'm very happy with this book. The book doesn't have patterns (I knew that) but has a wealth on information on bra making. In general it is written for those sewing for others, she often writes about "your clients". And I do think that if you are making bra's for others, this is a very, very good book. It's not the book to order right away if you never made a bra before, too extensive and too expensive for that.
The language and drawings are clear, the pictures of finished bra's not very inspiring, you'd better look at a few rtw lingerie sites for inspiration. On techniques it is great, and that was what I was looking for. I've read a bit in it and will for sure read it from cover to cover, and have seen a few things that I want to try for myself. I'm not sewing bra's for others, and have no intention to do that, but for me I can find information in this book, that I never got in any class/workshop I took, especially on sewing for larger sizes. And it's the first time I find a size table that tells me I have a DD or E cup. In other size tables I usually find that I have C80 (no way!) and for a check just now I calculated on a site that tells me I have A80 (who are they fooling?).
Enough on that, I'm sewing a blouse. I used a very nice quality cotton, feeling very soft and easy to work with. I also used interfacing from Sew Exciting. Pro woven fusible for outer collar stand, cuffs and button placket, pro tricot fusible for the inner collar stand (which I cut on the bias). It made sewing those parts so easy! It's much better than the Vlieseline fusibles I used till now.
It's from BWOF September 2003, a blouse with princess line seams, back yoke, button placket and cuffs with vent. I did an FBA and changed the point of the collar a bit.
For the collar with stand I used the method I always use, with good results again. The method is described a few times, you can find them here.