The difference of a sleeve head

 

In the photo above you see the same sleeve! Can you imagine? I added a sleeve head and all the wrinkling was gone. I must say that, even though I know that it is a game-changer, I wondered whether it would be enough or that I would have to re-do the upper part of the sleeve. Not necessary. 

I used the method described by Ann Rowley. The link shows her Flickr album where she explains the method. 

Thank you for your comments. They are very much appreciated, though I do understand that there is no time to comment every time (Dorothé). When I was last active on this blog about two/three years ago I already experienced problems with replying to comments. That has not changed. Even though I'm logged in, I can often only comment anonymously. So I'm sorry I'm not replying, I keep trying!

 

Progress

The jacket of my green suit has seen progress this week, though it isn’t finished yet. The inner construction of the front is done, I added a shoulder placket for extra support as I do in most jackets I make. 

The sleeves are sewn in but they don’t have the sleeve head and (small) shoulder pad yet.

Getting there, it’s the sleeve inner details, hemming and the lining to be done. Hope to finish it in the next few days. If the work we need to do on our house goes as planned.  

An unusual start

 If you’ve followed my blog in the past, you will know that I often do things my way and don’t follow instructions. The same is true for the order of construction. This time I started with the sleeves instead of the body of the jacket. No logical sewing reason, just that I had limited sewing time and postponed working on the inner construction of the body. For that I want real dedicated time. 

For the jacket I chose the less complicated route. I’ll remember the petite jacket for another time and have chosen the May 2006 jacket:

For spring/summer jackets I like 3/4 sleeves. This pattern has those with this nice curved hemline. Buttons will be attached later. 

Some of the inner construction visible here. The facing is interfaced with a thin fusible interfacing. After applying that I marked the stitch lines with carbon tracing paper. 

The curve is trimmed with pinking scissors to make the curve smooth. 

I trim the corners to minimise bulk. 

Next step will be sewing the front with a shoulder shield/placket. 

Rosie shirt

Tonight I played pattern tetris to get a jacket and trousers out of my fabric. The fabric is narrower than usual but I think it works. Pinned all the pieces to the fabric and as it’s getting late here I decided to wait with cutting. Better check tomorrow whether I have every piece and cut with a clear head.

In the meantime let me show you a blouse I finished only very recently. It’s the Rosie shirt from Bella loves patterns. The first time I use a pattern from her and it doesn’t disappoint. Well drafted and good, thorough instructions with a lot of photos. I wouldn’t be me if I would have followed them all as written ;).

The instructions make the collar as if it were a coat. Way too complicated imho, so I made sure the upper collar has a bit more fabric to adjust for turn of cloth and sewed the collar in between the front and the facing. At the back I used a bias binding for the edge, a cute detail that’s just for my own pleasure. 

The linen is a bit too stiff probably, I hope it gets a bit more drape over time.

 

Old Burda magazines, I love them

Thank you for the lovely comments and kind words on my blogging again. I can’t say how much it means to me that you read this after all the time I neglected this blog. 

The green suit I plan to make is not yet cut, I’m considering two jacket patterns and can’t decide yet. Let me share the options.

First the pattern that was my initial plan, until I realised that it was a ‘petite’ pattern for shorter women. It is from rhe February 2006 issue. I browsed all of my magazines (and I have a lot) to look for a similar shape for the sleeve but the only pattern that was close was a petite pattern too! 

  

If I would choose this pattern I must make changes I’m not too sure about. A muslin would be a first step. 

The other jacket is this one, from the May 2006 issue:

  

Both have 3/4 sleeves that I like but this one has a different style. It is in regular sizes. I know what to change for my figure on this one, Burda being consistent in drafting makes that easier. I love Burda patterns for that. And I love the older magazines better than the current ones, though there is improvement at the moment. There were so many repeat patterns and simple designs! 

This is my favourite trouser pattern right now, from a 2000 issue! I made it twice in the last month, adapting length and width a bit between the two. Will try to make photos of them and planning to use it for the green suit too  

Opening a door?

Not a new dress but one I’m quite happy with and looking forward to wearing it again this summer. Thought it’s a nice photo to say hello again. 

I stumbled upon Bloglovin for the first time in a very long time and found more blogs publishing (again) than I knew. 

I’ve been away again without meaning to. I posted a bit on Instagram but it never was the community the sewing blogs had. It might be time to revive my blog too. 

A few things have changed for me: I retired from my work in IT this year, which gives me more time for sewing and other hobbies. I started teaching sewing 5 years ago and continue doing so.  It’s really nice to be able to share the joy of sewing that way. 

Also I have started to make bag/organiser patterns and sell those in digital form and as paper patterns (the last only in a few shops in my country). I’m planning to use this blog mostly for the garment sewing I do and sharing the process, something that I like to read about myself. 

Next up: A green suit  from a beautiful linen.