Jacket construction–part 5–Finished

In my last post I showed pictures of the body of the jacket without sleeves.  Inserting the sleeves with this fabric was no problem. The extra ease in the sleevecap was easy to distribute in the armscyce. The first picture shows the extra fabric that is eased. In the next picture I have cut little pieces out of the seam allowance to smooth the sleevecap.

 

The lower part is sewn twice between the notches with a little space in between, then the seam allowance is trimmed only between the notches on the lower part of the armscyce.

 

The sleevehead is made of a 5 cm wide (2 inch) strip of fabric. Time to clean out my sewing room properly, as there must be some special fabric I use for this, but I couldn’t find it, and I looked hard. This works well though.

  

 

Now the main jacket was ready. Time for the lining. I used an off-white silk fabric that I bought in New York two years ago during a lovely meeting with Nancy K, Robin and Meg. The outer fabric has silk in it as well, so thought this was a good combination.

I used the bagging technique as described in the book Power Sewing by Sandra Betzina. In the first picture you see the opening in the back of the lining

 

 

Of course some photos of the finished jacket. The light is difficult, some photos are with flash, some without, making the color different. Even though I lenghtened the sleeve I would have preferred it a bit longer. It’s fine, but my preference is longer.

I’m not going to make a big deal of that, I like the jacket very much. It’s a lot of work making it like this, but I know it will last longer. A jacket that I made with similar techniques in July 2008 still looks good and I’ve worn that one quite a few times.

 

Time for a a little less time consuming project. Not sure yet what it will be.