Sewing bra cups with interfacing

Most of the bra’s I make have interfacing. In one of my  tutorials I describe using a special fusible interfacing, but I don’t use that any more. I have realised that I do a few things different nowadays and I’m working on an updated version.

Below is my default bra that I have made in a lot of variations. These are my latest additions to the lingerie drawer.

 

Usually I use a non stretch interfacing for the under cup and the side cup, which gives me the support I need. For a neat way of finishing also on the inside I do the following:

 

Pin right side of lace to right side of the under cup. Pin the non stretch interfacing layer on top of the lace.  The lace is now sandwiched between the under cup lycra and the interfacing.

 

Sew the seam with a straight stitch.

 

Turn to the right side and edgestitch the under cup. I use the invisible hem foot for this with the needle position to the left. While doing this I make sure that the lycra and interfacing are folded down properly. I do this by tugging it a bit with my fingers, I don’t use pins.

Trim the seam allowance.

 

The result on the outside of the cup

And on the inside.

For this bra on which I’m working now I then stretched the lcyra a bit over the interfacing as described in this post. The extra is still on the cup and has to be trimmed.

The side cup I sew in the same way.

After these additions to my drawer I hope to have some inspiration for regular garments again. My daughters bra is on hold for the moment as I have to order other wires. This is how the cups look now.