Jacket muslin

I’ve been working on drafting the pattern for the second jacket I want to make. My inspiration is another Claudia Sträter jacket. This jacket again has special design lines.

The pattern I started with is a Burda pattern. Have to check on the issue but it’s an old issue and it doesn’t look like this jacket. It has a lot of design lines though, which made it a bit easier to change them.

I’ve started with a size 40 by high bust measurement, knowing I would have to do an FBA. I decided to worry about that in a later phase, as the first thing was to get the lines of the pattern as I wanted.

 

My observations, I’d love to hear your thoughts on it. (click on the pictures too see a larger one)

• it’s too long, it has to be shortened.
• Collar looks ok, both roll line and hight of lapel
• I made the shoulder a bit shorter, think that’s better, but to be finally judged with sleeves added
• Start of pocket must be more to the side seam
• FBA needed
• Curve is too round, must be a bit steeper. It gets extra attention in my version because of the different fabric I had to use, might be less of an issue in the final fabric. And no one sees the original beside my version except my blog readers
• The back is over fitted at waist level, fabric pulling and not enough space to move
• A bit more space needed at the bottom
• I’m unsure about the amount of fabric at the armscye, but this too can also be judged when the sleeves are set in

What do you think, should I sew in the sleeves in this muslin or do the adaptions first and sew another muslin of the bodice?