Last details and finished jacket

A picture heavy post, as I’ve included pictures on me and on the dressform, to show the comparison for this once. A few pictures on the end conclude the details on the construction of this jacket. The jacket is finished and I’m so happy with it. The style is very much me, the fit is good and I really enjoyed sewing it. Nothing more to wish for? There is one little thing that’s not quite correct, but I won’t tell!

The front, the extra shoulder interfacing of hair canvas really ensures that the fabric doesn’t collapse between shoulder and bust. My fabric was very flexible, and I think it was the right thing to do.

At the back I took a bit out of the shoulder, to remove the extra pleat I often have there. The solution was in the book Fit for real people and I want to thank Nancy K for pointing me to this solution.

In the sleeves I used a sleevehead and thin shoulder pads.

To finish the posts on the jacket the last details on construction for those interested.

I didn’t make a separate lining pattern, but used the pattern and marked the extra space where necessary on the fabric. I seldom make a jacket pattern twice, so I just cut the facings from front and back pattern. (if I want to I could tape them together again).

Extra space in the low part of the sleeves, on top of the sleeve the extra centimeter that is used by the shoulder pad is taken off.

Extra width in the back, and at the shoulder seams also the space of the shoulderpads is taken off (folded the pattern down).
Not in the picture, but I also added extra width at the top of the side seams, where the sleeves are set in.

Hongkong finish for the front facing. The lining is inserted with the bagging technique.

One of the pattern changes was taking out half a centimeter at the front shoulder and tapering to the side.

The effect is that the center front is closed more when worn open. See the difference between the two jackets?

The changes I made to the jacket pattern:

• FBA on the front
• Shoulder change in at neckline in front (as described above)
• Shoulder change at the back (reverse, at the sleeve side) to remove extra space/pleat
• sleeves 2 cm longer
• decreased the sleeve ease
• more waist definition at the back

And finally: I didn’t use Burda’s instructions at all, I adjusted the pattern and used techniques described in the books below. I wouldn’t want to be without these books in my sewing library.