Working on a coat

Does this happen to you? You have a pattern, a fabric, an idea and at once you leave all other projects and start on something else. This is what happened Monday evening to me. I was thinking about sewing a coat, the pattern that I have now for about two years (originally sent to me by Cidell in exchange for Knip mode). Then I remembered the very dark grey fabric I bought for a coat and there I was tracing the pattern, cutting, preparing etc. Forgetting the buttonholes of the jacket and the pants I was about to finish. I’m sure they will be done soon, but now I’m obsessed with this coat.

ETA the pattern: Vogue 8465

I took a big risk and did not make a muslin. Fit in the shoulder area is not the main issue here, and well, I wanted to go ahead. The fabric is a very good quality wool, but bought very cheap because the shop was closing down. Muslin fabric wouldn’t reflect the drape of this fabric so I took my chances: started with size 16 and tapered for extra width to 18 at hip level. I based this on the finished measurements on the pattern.

It’s a whole lot of collar, and because it’s not too close to the face I thought I could wear this well enough. Large collars directly to my neck and face are no good on me.

After two (long) evenings this is the result so far:

After sewing the upper front parts and back together I tried it on and took out a bit at center back, only at the neckline, as it was standing away a bit too much. There is too much space in the back now, but I’m only wearing a t-shirt underneath and the skirt part still has to be added.

The instructions tell you to interface the front parts of the body, but I thought that wouldn’t be enough to keep the weight of the collar. So I interfaced the back too, and for the front I used hair canvas. For attaching that without adding bulk to the side seams I used a technique described by Kenneth King in his book Cool Couture. I’ll write more on that in another post.

I agree with Lindsay, sewing a coat is not as difficult as you might think, though this is not a very difficult pattern (but labelling it as Easy seems not right to me, you have to pay very close attention to the cutting layout, as the parts are not symmetrical and some parts have to be cut with the right side down for the lining)