My current project is a jacket (or cardigan jacket) from the latest issue from Burda, November 2025. It's the cover project and lovely in the fabric they used for it. As I am trying to use stash for a while (cupboard overflowing 😳), my version is made from a fabric that's at least 10 years old. Well matured! I made a pencil skirt from it and always meant to make a jacket from the fabric too, but as things go, it was forgotten.
Today I used for cutting and preparing. Normally I don't use wide seam allowances. This fabric is very loosely woven so I did use 1.5 cm (5/8 inch) seam allowances and used a handy tool to mark them (Burda magazine patterns don't include seam allowances).
This Prym tool has a larger wheel that you hold along the paper and a smaller wheel with a dispenser to mark a line with tailor's chalk. The default markings are 1.5 cm, 2.5 cm and 4 cm. I would have loved it even more if there had been a possibilty for 1 cm allowances, but alas. It comes in handy though when I want the 1.5 cm seam allowance. Mostly I use carbon tracing paper to mark the actual stitch line, but with fabric like this that's hardly visible, if at all.
On parts that I want to be exact, the darts, the points that have to be clipped, I basted the stitch lines. After cutting out, I serged all edges, to prevent the fabric from fraying.
In the video you can see the use of the tracing wheel.
I would love to follow along with your construction of this garment. I've always been fascinated by the idea of a non-armscye sleeve. Many years ago, there was one featured on the cover of Threads magazine. I enjoy your blog so much - thanks for re-activating it.
ReplyDeleteThank you! I have to get back in the routine of posting, but hope to get there. At least a project like this pushes me to write more often.
ReplyDeleteGadgets op naaigebied hebben altijd mijn interesse. Wat een leuk model jasje. Ben benieuwd hoe het wordt.
ReplyDeleteHerkenbaar, de interesse voor naai-gadgets. Heb er ook wel wat liggen die uiteindelijk minder handig bleken, maar sommigen ook onmisbaar!
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