Scallop edge–applying elastic

In my previous post I showed you how I used a tiny dart to get the scallop edge of lace to match the underband of the bra. Or at least, the main center part of it.

This means that elastic can’t be used as you would normally do, as now you can’t turn the elastic under the edge of the lace.

A picture of how it looks when finished:

First the elastic is attached to one side panel, the length of the center part is left open and the elastic attached to the other side panel. When turned the elastic is only topstitched at the center front.

The steps in pictures:

The side panel is attached to the front, making sure there’s space for the elastic to attach.

The inside, the lace panel is underlined with non-stretch tule. The side panel is a double layer. The tule used has some stretch. I use this because my lycra has a lot of stretch and does not give enough support when used as a single layer.

The picot elastic is attached with a zigzag stitch, meeting the edge with the lace exactly.

Measure the length of elastic you need for the center panel and mark the center front and end with a pin. (I used to take off 15-20% of the length of the pattern piece, but nowadays I just stretch the elastic and eyeball it)

Attach the elastic to the other side panel, take care not to turn it over in the center.

Turn the elastic, pin the elastic to the center front, just hiding the picot edge under the lace and topstitch with (triple) zigzag. In this case I would really prefer the triple zigzag as it’s wider and covering more of the width of the elastic. The result is as shown in the first picture. Below you can see that the center front elastic is only sewn with the triple zigzag.