Monday, July 12, 2010

Knip Mode wrap top

Last week I shared a few pictures from the August Knip Mode issue. I already said that I liked this top and I had to try it.

The fabric I bought very cheap last year in a sale, and I used it knowing that if it failed, nothing really was lost. And lost it is.

From the line drawing and most of the pictures in the magazine I had the impression there was a little overlap center front below the tie. This is not the case, which isn’t necessary bad, but something to be aware of.

A more major point is that the angle of tie and center front seems to be a 90 degree angle in the line drawing.

This is the pattern piece for it. You can see the angle is different.  The part left of the red marking has to be gathered, then it is folded back to the center front.
At this point I had read the instructions for construction and thought it would be allright after sewing it together.

Well: no, it doesn’t. See the strange angle of the front? I did clip the corner but it just will not sit properly and there is a pleat forming under the collar. My second attempt on the other side went together more smoothly (I changed the way of putting it together a bit) but has the same issue.

The side view is not too bad, and the back needs some more shaping. That will not be difficult, there are two darts in the back that I can sew a bit deeper.
First impression of the pattern: it is not drafted well, or am I missing somehing? I think the angle of the neckline to the center front should be 90 degrees.

Otherwise I’m happy with the fit. This is a straight size 40, only tapered to 42 at hip height. The back issue is a problem with my figure, not the pattern.  Perhaps I’ll pick this pattern up in August again, because apart from the front issue, I still like it.

And I forgot to answer a question from Jane. She asked whether the Vogue/Mc Call’s catalogues contain patterns. Well, I’m not really the right person to ask, as I don’t have any of these, but from what I read about them they’re just catalogues, no patterns included.

17 comments:

  1. I think you are right Sigrid - I would change it to 90 degrees. It looks lovely on you everywhere else - you must save it!

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  2. Considering your expertise in sewing, I'm sure the pattern is a bad draft, or a badly designed front! You know how to fix it, and maybe we'll see that blouse again, configured correctly.

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  3. Very beautiful! i love the way the white pattern stands out!

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  4. Strange. I'd be inclined to think that it's the draft too. I loved the technical drawing on this but back ties annoy me. You've got to tie them blind, and you're sitting against the knot and then there's the it always makes me think of a little girl's pinafore. Do you like it well enough to fiddle with it is the question. I think the front is wonderful, but the back, eh, not so much.

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  5. I like this top very much. We don't seem to get Knip Mode in Australia, which is a shame

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  6. That is great fabric - the front looks nice - I'm sure you'll fix what needs fixing!

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  7. It might look a bit different to the line drawing but it still looks good. Can you modify this version so you can just wear a belt with it?

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  8. I wonder if Gwen is right about the poor drafting. Knipmode is not available in Australia so can't comment on their precision. It is worth rescuing.

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  9. It is a cool concept, I think worth working on. The bad draft is annoying, though!

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  10. That's a really interesting pattern with nice lines. I see your concerns but you should definetly give it a second try!

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  11. Nevertheless, still a good looking top. I hope you make it again, with your modifications that you desire, because the style suits you very nicely.

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  12. Indeed, I too think that this top is worth more work, because the collar looks so incredibly put together. But then I would say that, wouldn't I. After all, I did not just ascertain that the patronenwinkel would send within Europe, I ordered the instantly.

    But now I'm warned and shall cut my first attempt with lots of material to spare.

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  13. I agree with the others that the pattern could be a bad draft, but I think it is definitely worth working on. Very cute design.

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  14. Well, regardless of the pattern's faults, I do like this on you. I just made a Burda vest that you might like; hopefully I'll post a review soon.

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  15. Can you tell me how to order Knipmode. I have search the web, but can't seem to find it.

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  16. By the way, you can buy invisible zippers here in the garment district for $0.50 each. Save room in your suitcase!

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  17. I'm glad to see this one made up in 'real life'. I see what you mean with the pattern, but I still like it very much. Even more than from the pictures in Knipmode itself. It's a very interesting and flattering top. You've done a great job. And thanks for pointing out the problems with the construction. It will be very helpful for those who want to sew this top.

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